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About rhocken

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  • Car Model
    S13 Silvia
  • Occupation
    Electronics Engineer
  1. If you look at it side on as opposed to top on, it might make more sense. When you look at it side on, with the shifter included as well. The shifter pivot is fixed. When you push the top of the shifter forward into 3rd gear, the bottom goes backwards, pulling (2) and the shaft on (3) out of the gearbox. Also they are both moving in an arc. The shifter top goes down slightly, and the bottom (1) moves up slightly. The linkage (2) pivots at (1) and (3) to achieve this. You should also note that (2) and the shaft from (3) into the gearbox are not in a straight line (2) droops slightly. Now again if you look at everything from the back of the shifter. When you push the shifter left (towards 1st and 2nd), the bottom goes to the right. This rocking action rotates the shaft (2) and (3). If shaft (2) weren't drooping as we noticed when looking side on, it couldn't be pushed to the side. If you removed (2) outright, (3) can't rotate AND move sideways which is what the shifter is trying to do to it. The only way to get it to work is on a left/right motion of the shifter, it would have to pivot at point (3) to get the shaft to rotate, BUT a forward back motion on the shifter would have to pivot above point (3). This is all doable, but you can't use the 'simple' ball pivot that the shift lever is using by default. So it requires more work there. Depending on how you do it the left and right throw may be too much as well. With the standard arrangement, the angle that the shifter rotates left and right is less than what the shaft rotates. Also a very short linkage (2), results in the gear knob rotating along the axis of the gear lever as you turn it left and right. possibly not noticable or something someone cares about. That Gktech kit is a good way of doing it. It cuts off (3) and bolts on the L shaped piece which hangs below the shaft. The ball on the end of the shifter slides vertically in the L shaped piece so it handles that misalignment, and the fact that the pivot it forms is now below the centerline of the shaft now means it can move left and right to rotate it.
  2. If I'm understanding correctly, that seat should push up against the valve, but still be sitting slightly proud of the flange. Then when you bolt the flange down, it will push it home. If the seat is loose, I'd put a smear of exhaust sealent around the outside of the seat (the bit that makes contact with the housing, keep the contact area with the valve clean), then push it in, and bolt it up. Leave the exhaust sealant time to cure. If the seat is not sitting proud of the flange before bolting it up, then there is something wrong with the whole setup. I havn't seen one of these gates personally, so may be on the wrong track.

    Could be that someone has pulled the needle off and realised they don't know how to put it back together properly. The needle shaft has a magnet on it that sits in some windings on the back of the gauge. When the needle is correctly placed on the shaft, the magnet sits in the middle of the winding. If the needle is not on the shaft enough, the magnet binds on the bottom of the windings which stops it moving, over time due to vibration it will slowly get to the right position. It's been a long time since I had mine apart, Now that I think about it, I think the shaft comes with the needle, and the magnet sits in the middle by itself...I put a small spring on the shaft between the gauge face and the bottom of the needle to lift it up a fraction. (small spring, no real compression in it) That might be able to fix it assuming that is your problem.
  4. I've got one. Quietens it down considerably when closed - but kills performance. ECU really hates it - probably throws the VE map out the window Also if you just tap the button, it only moves it a bit, have to hold it a bit to get it to open fully. I'd like to link it to tie it in to throttle position. i.e. It opens it on full throttle, then closes it after 30sec or so of less than 10% throttle.
  5. Has the car got the DCC loom as well? I seem to recall that the analogue loom will plug in, but not work and damage something
  6. Given the proportioning valve is built into the MC (In the left of the two pictures above, it is the 'tube' on the side of the main tube with the R on in). The proportioning/split point may not be what you want
  7. S13 silvia bonnet alignment issue

    Assuming your guards are bolted down properly, and not distorted, it must be that you bonnet is distorted (someone put a lot of weight on it). Problem is the bonnet has stiffening ribs on the bottom side by the guards. You'll need a good panel beater who can shrink the underside of the stiffening rib - not just a hammer and dolly I realigned my a carbon S13 bonnet which had the opposite predicament (bulged up in the centre). Using a good steal bonnet, I cut MDF to almost the right curve, then placed body filler between the MDF and tape on the top of the bonnet to get the contour exact. Then clamped my carbon bonnet to the guides, and cut the back of the ribs and reglassed them in the new position. In your instance you may be able to do something similar - but instead pull the steal bonnet down onto the former with clamps to carefully try and pull the bonnet back into shape - (steel will distort, fibreglass won't - you shouldn't need to cut anything). It will be very easy to screw it up and end up with a fold or something if you're not careful. I think your best bet is to replace the bonnet to be honest. The paint looks rooted anyway, and is that a crease above the right front headlight?
  8. For me (in NZ) - cost of MC and then getting someone to drill and tap it - $80ish. Anyway what ever works - it's simply another option.
  9. Also remember some of the Z32s have a 17/16 BMC. Mine was ABS, but the 3rd port is there, I got it drilled, tapped and the olive put in there to make it non abs suitable.
  10. Even if you could buy a new crownwheel and pinion (I'm sure Nissan would sell you one), I would have thought it would be far far cheaper to buy a second hand diff. If you want to keep the core out of your current diff (if it is an LSD) then you can swap that over and re-shim everything for proper crownwheel/pinion engagement (this is not the same as 'shimming' a diff to 'tighten' it up)
  11. low impedance uses resistors. RX7 550cc top feed are low impedance
  12. Steel wool in catch can?

    Venting to atmosphere isn't the best of ideas - half defeats the purpose of the crankcase ventilation. On an AFM car it results in loss/gain of unmetered air - i.e. tuning issues. There is also no vacume to draw the fumes out so it doesn't work as well. If you've got a catchcan with nothing for the oil to condense around, and a filter on the output there is really no point in the can - it's not doing anything. This discusses NA crankcase ventilation: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2032/crankcase-ventilation-explained--na-edition.aspx.Turbo can extrapolate from that.
  13. I went to a brake place and got them made up. Take your existing S13 lines, also the bolt through the banjo that goes onto the Brembo caliper. Measure the distance from the strut mount to the brembo caliper. Tell them what you're doing and they'll custom make something up also with the correct mid hose strut mount. Mine used Goodridge fittings which are the only road legal option here in NZ.
  14. I have a Z32 gbox in S13 with a unsprung clutch centre - same issue - though I always put it down to the clutch centre, not the gbox itself Z32 box can fit in the trans tunnel on S13 fine without bashing it. In fact the standard kit as it is angles the engine backwards and has the gearbox low. I spaced the gearbox up at the back to get the engine sitting back in the right position (it was causing my custom top feed fuel to fowl on my custom strut brace - i.e.a problem most other people won't have). I do have different linkages on the back of the gbox, and also replaced the cover plate with a thin aluminium plate
  15. Rails to fit Bride gias replicas

    http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1316/revenge-of-the-nerd-boycott-fakes.aspx Buy the real thing and you won't have an issue. Instead you're putting companies out of business that actually design stuff you want for others to copy. There is no justification for it - but flame away anyway.