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About sqd

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  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S14 kouki
  1. I was worried that going E85 on the stock S14 fuel lines and only using one in-tank pump (the Walbro 450 lp/h) would limit me on the dyno. Turns out it didn't! I made almost 600 rwhp with the above + ID2000 last week Just posting because maybe someone else is wondering the same thing, because I sure did before went to get the car tuned. And now there isn't much left to squeeze out of the turbo (sure, there are a few hp more in it, but not a lot), which is a Precision 5857.
  2. Thanks for the reply fellas, but I found the issue the same day It was partly a damaged wire, and a bad crimped end (could pull it apart fairly easily). Fixed those and replaced the relay (just because I had one laying around), and now the problem is gone
  3. This is going to take some explaining, so please bear with me here, since I'm stumped. S14, SR20, ID2000, E85, Link G4 ECU, Walbro 450 lp/h pump, Fuelab FPR, stock lines & Z32 fuel filter - those are the relevant parts here I think. The battery is in the trunk, the pump is wired to a relay in the trunk as well. Engine was just built, so this is with the base map, slightly adjusted for better idle etc, so this is just me starting to drive the car. I've started it and let it idle a few times prior to this, with no issues. So yesterday, I'm going to take it out on the road for the first time, and try getting on some boost to see what happens. I let it idle for like 20 minutes, and it's hot out, so it gets warmed up quickly etc. Take it out on the road, do an easy pull to get up to about .5 bar/7-8 PSI in second gear, no problem. Throw in third goes well at first, but then it cuts out, like dies as if I turned the ignition off. I clutch, rev and it is alive, but this happens all the time now - when I drive with a steady throttle, it does this - if I keep the throttle at the same position, nothing happens, I have to take my foot off the pedal, and throttle again. Sometimes it does "come back" if I don't take my foot off, it's just random. Go back home, and I immediately see on my AFR-gauge that it's a bit more rich now.. Turn the car off, then turn the ignition back on - the fuel pump keeps priming/running and the relay for it in the trunk, keeps clicking. I disconnect the pump, and it's still clicking. So I try this - I bypass the relay and connect the pump directly, and now it almost never cuts out - I've taken it up to 1 bar/14-15 PSI without it cutting out at all, but it is running lean instead (14-15 AFR on boost). It will still, sometimes cut out as above, but not as often at all, and not as bad, ie I don't have to clutch kick and rev it, but it still happens, and I don't know why.. The lean on boost may be due to the tune, but then again, the base map should be very safe in terms of richness etc. Anyone with ideas/help will have my deepest grattitude, and if someone solves it outright, I will f*cking Paypal you some dough! I am really that desperate.
  4. Well, a better setup would require two pumps of course, and I already have the Walbro 450 - and fitting two of them in the tank seems kind of difficult. But! Later this year, or whenever I can afford it/have the time, I'm planning on doing an external setup maybe, with two Bosch 044's (I have one 044 that I don't use). But that will require some work, installing new feed/return line etc. But now I'm curious what I can make with only one 450 lp/h Interesting thing about it, according the flow charts I've seen (from more than one source), it flows a tad over 300 lp/h at 5 bars (3 bar base pressure and 2 bars of boost) - that's what one 044 flows at just base pressure..
  5. Ok, so I know very well that when people ask for a rough estimate in what power their car/setup is going to make, there are plenty of different factors that makes a significant difference on the end result, but with this thread I'm more aiming to just see what peoples guesses are, and just have a friendly chat Started the new engine/setup yesterday, and it jumped to life pretty quickly, not many revolutions on the starter was needed. Also, I got 5 bar's of oil pressure instantly, so that's good (after building it up to about 1.5 bar prior to the start). Anyway, now that it runs, I'm gonna book a tuning session soon, but I would like to know what you fellas think I'm going to make, roughly guessing To break down the parts that actually makes a difference when making power: SR20 blacktop, no VTC Forged bottom end with ARPs and ACL Race bearings etc. Ported head, removed squish areas, CNC'd combustion chambers etc etc, Tomei 260 Procams, GReddy valvesprings/retainers, VAG/Audi coilpacks (built in ignitors). Custom exhaust header, Tial 44mm WG, Precision SC5857, 3" DP/exhaust, GReddy IC, 80mm throttle body, JUN/PNT-style intake. GReddy rail, Injector Dynamics ID2000's, Walbro 450 lp/h pump (in tank), E85. Link G4 standalone w/ 4-bar MAP sensor. Nismo twin plate, Z32 box. That's the stuff I can think of that's needed to know There's one negative point though - stock fuel lines! Sure I would like AN8 braided lines with all AN-fittings, but I haven't had the time nor money to go that route yet. So yeah, anyone who would like to take guess how much I'll make at most? I know the pump will give in probably before any of the other stuff do, but I sooo wish I'll make 500 whp (372 rwkw).. Not sure why, but that is the goal I want to reach
  6. Does anyone know what the thread pitch/size is for a Greddy top feed fuel rail is? I mean the holes for feed and return. I bought mine used and it came with no adapters for hoses etc, so I have nothing to really go on. I took it to a local hardware store, but they couldn't find something that fit.
  7. Don't know if anyone cares but got the adapters I posted above, and they fit just fine
  8. Thanks! Found similar ones in Sweden though (where I live), looks like this: And they fit ID2000, so just ordered four, and I hope they do the job
  9. Nope, because the mounts are custom made along with the intake, mounts are welded on both the intake and rail, so it's not mounted with spacers unfortunately :/ Looks like this (note that I'm holding the rail upside-down in this pic )
  10. Upping this, and my Greddy rail has been bored out for 14mm injectors: So it has that step inside it where it goes back down to 11mm again. Still, is it possible to buy the long, 14mm purple adapters for ID2000? I've only seen the short ones.
  11. The first thing I did was e-mail Injector Dynamics about this, and there are 14mm adapters, but only SHORT ones, ID said they don't sell the long, rail-side adapters separately. I have the blue, long adapters to the left, I would need the purple ones next to the blue ones ideally: Are they the long, top side adapters? The purple ones in the pic above?
  12. So I have a custom made intake manifold for my SR20, with a modified GReddy fuel rail on it. And a week or so ago, I recieved my Injector Dynamics ID2000 injectors, with the BLUE tops/adapters on it - 60mm (long) and 11mm diameter for the rail. Now, the GReddy rail is supposed to be 11mm, but when I insert the injector in the rail, the injector is obviously too small, there's a bit of play in the rail. So, the previous owner must have bored it out, he used Delphi 998cc injectors, which seem to be 14mm ones. So I was thinking, Aeroflow have a set of o-ringed 11 to 14mm adapters, they look like this: I should be able to just get four of those, put on my injectors and then into the rail, right? Tell me if wrong!
  13. Right (afaik). And my previous setup used BC 272s, and now I'm rebuilding the engine after a bearing failure, and now I'll be running Tomei 260 Procams instead (not the solid lifter version). And I'm not gonna be running adjustable cam gears..
  14. That's good to know - AFAIK, the crank should be pretty much close to factory spec. It came from a stock SR20 with no bearing failure in it's life, and show no wear or the likes. I'm just curious if I need to reorder new bearings in larger sizes, I thought that more power would require a little more clearance/bearings on the "looser" side, but I'm not sure..