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CraZeeE

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Everything posted by CraZeeE

  1. ns is dead as dead but... Serial 9 shifter assembly fits with no cutting to the tunnel according to the net.
  2. Thats damn cool. thanks! Turns out my car was a spec R type B from factory, although the blue stitched steering wheel it came with is long gone....but have the seats...
  3. Touch-up paint on boot floor

    keep in mind most primers are porous....so perhaps avoid unless you want to do a topcoat as well. An alternative could be Por15 or similar.....
  4. Oli's ADM S15

    Yeah, Ive had a coppermix in s13 and s15. Its great in the former, its horrid in the latter simply due to the chatter on decel. NPC or Direct Clutch heavy duty organics are almost as nice feeling and avoid this.
  5. I too did a washer relocation with flat bar to allow me to get an oil cooler in. Washer side was easy. Oil cooler side took a few experiments to get the cooler in there... but only needed a few welds to make all of the brackets. Pics attached which may be of some use...:
  6. Trolley Jack Lift Pad

    well I found the site and bought a 2 pack. Cheers.
  7. Interesting. If it can get away without bashing the tunnel and the shifter can be manipulated into the stock position it'd be a winner for me...but both seem unlikely...
  8. Good points, yeah it is a bit more complex than i thought...
  9. Valve Springs And VCT

    A rule of thumb I had explained to me was to match springs to cams by using the springs recommended by the cam manufacturer. Ie tomei springs with tomei cams, HKS springs with hks cams etc....BC cams and springs killed the VCT on my brothers car, I used poncams and tomei springs and Im all good.
  10. righto you posted my thoughts just as I was having them!
  11. actually, just a thought, is there any reason you cant modify the linkage to avoid cutting the tunnel? Dunno what all these bits are called, but if you had the end of the shifter (1) connected straight to part (3) surely that would get the shifter further forward as it would get rid of part (2) Youd need to cut part 3 and turn the tabs 90degrees and reweld and make a new bracket to bolt to the gearbox and hold the middle of the shifter, but that doesnt seem particularly hard. Im no engineer but it seems like an obvious simple solution, any reason it wouldnt work??
  12. This is really helpful, cheers for the updates dude!
  13. Wtb: bm57 brake master cylinder

    http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/brake-master-cylinder-bm57-1716-nissan-skyline-p-1044.html I rate these guys for parts..
  14. S15 Handling mods

    If you do go the whiteline kit, get the newer model sway bar links and swaybar lock brackets. The links that come with the kit are flimsy and I found my rear sway kept wanting to foul on the exhaust until I used the little locks bracket things.
  15. ebay australia has a few bud....if they will post... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SILVIA-S15-LEFT-DOOR-WINDOW-GLASS-/221914822848?hash=item33ab2778c0:g:fYwAAOSwA4dWIC8v
  16. considering the going rate for s15 and r33gtst calipers id be inclined just to get another one/set...but a helocoil would also work. Also, get a torque wrench and crow feet sockets...
  17. Personally, Im looking at these... http://www.mazworx.c...-s-chassis.aspx although the only review ive seen (albiet incomplete isnt real encouraging) https://zilvia.net/f...d.php?p=6036833
  18. Turbo choice 2016

    cheers mate, 6758 320rwkw http://www.full-race...6758-turbo.html and another at 284rwkw http://www.trak-life...ner-6758-284kw/ However the most interesting for me is the following!! 6258 261rwkw http://www.trak-life...ner-6258-261kw/ Compare that to my 2863r http://nissansilvia....ttach_id=461780 Both e85 (well e75 for me but whatever) Poncams vs BC 262 cams (VCT vs no VCT I presume) Haltech vs Nistune MAP vs Z32 1200cc vs 850cc (surely the 850cc would limit things) Both 3"exhuasts Low mount std manifold vs High mount Blitz vs China intercooler 25psi vs 21psi (not sure, hard to read) slightly different corrections and air density no idea what gear the EFR was in...presume 4th? Fairly close result.......
  19. Turbo choice 2016

    I had a quick look but couldnt find any 6758 or 6258 dyno sheets on e85....anyone found any? if so...link?
  20. Turbo choice 2016

    Ive posted in the GTX thread if you want to see a dyno, but GTX2863r 230rwkw on 98 277rwkw on e85. Very responsive. Feels like stock response...but does feel it runs out of puff a little early.... http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=516093&st=180&p=2088618093entry2088618093 Would love to see GTX29xx dynos and EFR dynos........to be honest I threw the GTX on 2 years ago now....Im sure the EFR outperforms but Im wondering how the GTX29xx will go.... My opinion is along these lines : 2863 hits 230 on 98 and 277 on e85 and is very responsive. On E85 Id say its better than a stock t28 or at least equivalent. 2867 should get 10% more power and looks as responsive on a dyno but Im unaware of anyone with real world experience.....so this may be untrue. I nearly chose this one in 2013 and suspect it would have been better. EFR seems to get more power while maintaining responsiveness but needs a little more fab work and is more expensive. Im unaware of any direct comparisions to the 2863r though, seems to me most comparisons are to older GT wheels but Id still say its probably better than GTX28xx....but I suspect not as much as people believe....and its more expensive, but at the moment, its the one I'd get. At the time I ordered a 2863 there were supply issues and reliability issues with EFRs which swayed me against them. Both these drawbacks are no longer applicable. Precision 5130 has more lag but slightly more power than 2863....I'd avoid it on a street car especially if you are only running 98 but it is a direct bolt on so if you're on a budget.... GTX29 should get more power but there is no information on responsiveness......or power....or anything........although this situation applied to the GTX2863 when I bought it.... GTX30xx will get more power but if you're going high mount you might as well go the EFR which will get more response, you can low mount it however....but doing so will likley compromise your result.
  21. I reckon a length of 2mmx20mm aluminum bar could mount in at the lower guard lining mounts and could be bent to form an arch which runs higher than the std mounting points for the liner at the top of the wheel arch. It could hold the lining up higher than it would otherwise be either from below or from above by using rivets....but i imagine the liner would still need to be stretched/cut to suit it.
  22. tie rod ends

    On the 180 I used s13 tie rods and ends initially, they had 15-25mm of thread with s15 LCAs, although shortly after went to a s15 rack. Might be a good opportunity to get s14 tie rods and ends that minimise bump steer if your car is lowered at all.
  23. Under seat subwoofer

    I bought a space saving sub a few weeks back, this one http://www.pioneer.c...X120A/page.html I wanted better mid and low range, but didn't want a large heavy sub box. It wouldnt fit under a front seat, so I installed it IN the rear seat of my s15. Basically took off the cover, then the foam, mounted it to the metal frame in the middle on the cabin side between the rear passenger seats, trimmed the foam a bit then reinstalled foam and the cover. You wouldnt know it was installed, and it does sound better than without buuuuuuuuuuuut the sound is not really great for the price, at lower volume levels its barely noticeable, at louder levels its barely adequate. If I was doing it again I would get a 8 or 10 inch sub, build a small slim box and mount that to the rear seat between the struts. Even if the box wasnt optimised for sound and rather for small size I still reckon it would outperform what I have.
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