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About loco_180

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    Silver Member

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  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    Nissan 180sx
  1. I assume I do, vacuum hose to fpr is fine plus there is no other way of adjusting fuel.
  2. Yeah they say you have to rev it to 3000rpm 2-3 times to lock the timing, however I cannot get this to work. It definately is more stable just by disconnecting the tps as having it connected gives erratic readings.
  3. Hey guys, So I just returned my 180 back to pretty much standard as I will be selling it shortly. It has an SR20det. Previous mods that are now removed include: Gt3071r - back to S15 t28 BC cams stage 2 264/264 Steampipe manifold w/ tial external gate 38mm Power FC w/ Z32 AFM 740cc nismo injectors The parts that are still on the car include: Walbro fuel pump FMIC Engine has been rebuild with forged internals So ever since I removed everything and went back to standard there has been a hesitation on slight throttle. I immediately thought TPS and idle control as when I put the BC cams in the car would not idle. The tuner was then able to fix it up and it ran smooth. So I checked TPS and it read 0.71volts with closed throttle. I reset this to factory settings which is 0.45volts closed throttle and it progresses smoothly up to just over 4 volts on full throttle. So TPS is fine. I then checked timing and set it to 16-17degrees base timing and adjusted idle screw so it would idle at 850rpm. One issue I had with timing is whenever i got the idle right, the computer will decide to add timing and the idle will go up (timing will go to 25degrees roughly and idle up to 1800rpm. Many attempts were made trying to make them both work together but it just could not be done. I did disconnect the TPS to try and set the timing but it would not lock. So this is one issue I have as now the idle is still not quite right but I still have hesitation on light throttle applications. Partial and full throttle is no problem, only when I depress the accelerator up to 5-10mm. This means that traffic acceleration is a pain and also cruising is a pain. Can anyone send some suggestions? Not sure what else can be tuned on a std car apart from TPS, timing and idle control screw. BTW there are no vacuum or air leaks. Thanks.
  4. http://gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=159&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 This is the turbo. Don't know what you mean by cropped???
  5. engine was supposed to be run in but is using some oil, so we went back to running in oil and pulled more fuel out of the tune whilst throwing in the cams to see if it fixes it. I gotta drive another 1000k then change to another mineral and run that a bit further before going synthetic. So still some time before I get the power tune. I'm getting the tune done by Mark at MRC in Castle Hill. I was told he was really good and he is really helpful and informative. Sat down with me and went through everthing he had done with the tune and also offered suggestions to perfect my setup. Plus his workshop is walking distance from work, so I just drop it off and walk to work then take the work car home. Works out well
  6. Hey guys, Just wanted to get some opinions on my latest dyno readings. First up my setup: 95 180sx w/ SR20DET 9.0:1 CP Pistons Eagle Rods Cosworth metal head gasket ARP head studs BC Step 2 cams 264/264 GT3071R 0.64 Steam pipe tuned length manifold w/ external tial 38mm gate and screamer Z32 AFM Power FC 740cc nismo injectors Walbro 255 fuel pump along with all the usuals Got my first tune done on 10psi and it made 194.4kw. I was told by the tuner that this is better than most SR's which generally make 160kw @ 10psi. This figure makes me think that at 20psi the car would make around 250kw which is not what I was expecting at all, I was thinking with this setup I would get more closer to 300 than 250kw. At least 275kw+. Does anyone think that the car might make that power and if not, what am I missing??? Cheers
  7. Found it all of a sudden on the thread of spark plug #2. Fresh oil on the thread. Thinking maybe valve stem seals or head gasket. Also found oil in my inlet. A puddle of oil sitting in the intake pipe. Must be a problem with how my pcv system is setup. Gonna have to check it over.
  8. Hey guys, My 180 (sr20det) has a leak somewhere but I can't find where the f*** it is. Whenever I do an oil change I can smell it quite well. I can smell the fresh oil being burnt off somewhere. Here is where I have checked: Through engine bay: - Rocker cover gasket - Dipstick - Oil Cap - Turbo feed line - Oil pump - there appears to be a small buildup of oil after a month of driving. Not enough to cause the smell and lose so much oil. - Rocker cover Breather - Engine appears clean around harmonic balancer Under car - Oil filter - Oil pressure sender - Sump - both pieces - Oil return line - Hole in gearbox for rear main issues Other details, - No blue or white smoke from exhaust on startup or under load - only black - Gearbox oil is still full - Compression test showed consistent pressure in every cylinder (engine was rebuilt a few months back) So as you can see, I am losing oil - it can be smelt when there is a fresh oil change - so much that when I pull up at a servo the people next to me think what is that smell. One guy even came up to me and asks 'you losing some oil mate' that's how much it smells when I pull up so it must be a significant leak but there is no evidence of it Has this ever happened to anyone or is there something I'm missing? Is there a way I can test for leaks or something apart from visually inspecting??? Cheers
  9. Need help etc with a rebuild.

    Yep listen to SR-NRG, took his advice on my rebuild
  10. 180sx

    2JZ no shit!!!
  11. hmmm, I guess the difference wouldn't be much. If I'm going on the track, drags or drift I can go screamer and plumb back on the street if I get sick of screamer. I think i'll just enter it between the bend and cat as parrallel as possible. That will do, i'm sure at 300kw, 5kw isn't going to make much difference on the street
  12. Hmmm, jumping in here. I was wanting to have an option to go from screamer to plumb back by creating a flange that can be removed. I was thinking of doing this further down the exhaust before the cat so as to not be seen. Going from what this thread is saying, having the wastegate gases entering before the cat is not a good idea in terms of flow. So is it really a one or the other scenario, either have a screamer tha runs down near the cat, or plumb it in on the bottom end. Or I guess perhaps I can make two pipes and create block off on the bottom bend when running screamer (would this disturb the flow??) Having V Band would make it easy to swap over as well.
  13. Voila!!! Its works, thanks heaps dude. It's set up just the way my actuator was set and it works On 0% it holds 12.5 On 30% it holds 14.7 On 40% it holds 15.9 Might need to go a heavier spring if it's to hold 19-21psi. Not dare trying it now whilst it's not tuned.
  14. If that's true than that sucks, I can't use an EBC in that case
  15. Ok, So just got my 38mm tial mvs wastegate fitted and went for a drive and the gate was not opening. I tried different ways of connecting the profec b and nothing worked. - What I have done was connect the top port of the wastegate to the com port on the solenoid. - Then I ran the side port of the wastegate to a T piece which leads to the line before the throttle body. - The other port of the solenoid also goes to another t-piece on the same vacuum hose which goes before the throttle body. With this setup the gate would not open and shoot right up to 19psi by the time I backed off. So, I removed the line from the com port of the solenoid which comes from the top of the wastegate and voila, the gate opens at around 10psi and holds 12.5psi to redline. Put the line back on and it doesn't open at all. Things I have tried: - Profec B is set to 0% - Tried turning profec B off whilst connected, - Tried swapping lines around on soleniod, - Tried using after throttle body source. Does anyone have an idea how to make it work? Looking at the turbosmart website (tial don't have good instructions) the EBC that is shown has 3 ports on the solenoid whereas the profec b only has 2. Could my EBC be incompatible with external wastegates??? Please help!!!