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Everything posted by Shawnhalu

  1. Hi, sorry for bringing up an old thread. but any one know where can i get a driveshaft safety loop? i found alot of mustang ones. but cant find any for S15
  2. Hi everyone sorry for bring up a old thread but i needed some help on this, I have a Nissan Silvia S15 (200SX) been with S13 (5speed), S14 (5speed) & S15 (6speed) gearbox. Recently i have got a chance to get either a Z33 or Z34 due to a mate have both car that going to be scrapped soon. There is a few question i have been researching but getting kind of mixed answer which i like to clear off. Before i start buying the conversion kit 1. Z33 or Z34 a better choice? (some saying Z34 bellhousing is shorter than Z33?) 2. Mazworx SRVQ Bellhousing after cutting the bell housing of stock. the gap inbetween can it be seal up or can i cut actually shorter off so that the gap will be closed? 3. does it need hammering of tunnel. (i read some said that mazworx adapter does not really need hammering) 4. Can i retain S15 Dual mass flywheel & clutch? 5. Is there any NVH if convert to the above mention transmission? 6. would like external slave pump just like stock s15 6 speed 7. what is with the synchro match & speedo thing as i am not quite sure on this section? i am so sorry that i have to came to check with you as i cant get a definite answer on this part.
  3. Hi BigFist hows your Z33 conversion so far?
  4. Sard Jet Pump Killer

    Hi I need some help here. I have bought the Sard Jet Pump Killer for a S15. I know it create better venturi effect but i am not sure which way to install it to have a better setup. 1. Use Sard general setup that drop the jet pump adaptor into the tank where the pump is and with a line to another side 2. Attach the jet pump to the Fuel tank cap and uses the stock external return and (a line at the bottom corner of the silvia tank, which i assume is sucking fuel from the side where the pump is not located) to the connector of the fuel tank cap where the jet pump is attached below. anyone have an idea?
  5. I need some opinion on KTS vs CUSCO vs KAZAMA handling parts. My arm are very old already thinking of swapping all of it. but i have seen this KTS price being cheap but i have see no review on the item itself. anyone here can give me some help? thanks

    Thanks Guys for all the info

    btw i have some cusco arms already on the car. which have done i guess more than 60000km i dont get any noise from it. but just very rusty on the turnable parts. can it still be use or might just change it. everytime when it need to be adjust, the mechanic have to use lot of wd40 and a tremedous of strength before it can be lossen and turn.

    what are the guard & caster brace you talking bout? wow ikeya formula is expensive haha

    Any reason why? Genuine question,as I'm planning on getting all my arms through gktech. I've had multiple sets of bearings fail in extremely short periods of time. I had the tie rod ends fail with less than 2k kms use (even with 'qa1' brand bearings) and camber arms that failed in about 8k km use on a daily that saw no abuse whatsoever. I have not used the v3 arms, just the previous versions. The billet arms are bulky, and the fittings are overly big and seize up. The threads are also quite coarse / large meaning you get more adjustment with less turns, most other quality brands come with fine threads, much easier to work with and easier to undo lock nuts. I don't mean to talk shit about his brand, we all know he's a stand up bloke who fixes problems. Spl use titanium locking nuts and tubing, so light AF and strong. Welds are also very good. Most importantly the rose joints are quality (i believe gktech now uses qa1 bearings, so should be a bit better than before). I'd love to see spl (or another quality producer) come out with a rubber / poly rod end, that would be a perfect package. I'm still not sold on hard race, being a Chinese produced brand. roberto. any opinion on the kazama vs cusco? ps i also have a question. which of this yashio core support guard & the cusco tension bar support is better or rather have some good in it. as the yashio tie from power brace to chassis, cusco tie from power brace left to right.
  10. KTS vs CUSCO vs KAZAMA

    KTS REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER BRACE KIT - GT-R SILVIA SKYLINE this item is not for a silvia s15 right? i dont see any of this arms around silvia. unless one look like the traction arms
  11. Guys i need help on these rings. Do you guys think is it overkill to use Titanium Rings on a street car running over 360 horses or the rings that come with tomei piston is more than enough? i already have the piston on hand and saw they have the titanium coated top rings. does it also mean the bottom rings is the same as the ring that came along with the piston?
  12. I am sorry for starting a new thread on this. But after reading much, i am still confuse over the Bushes, which bushes will create more noise after swapping? I seen alot of people saying about the Powered by Max Solid Subframe Riser. My daily driven S15 bushes is old now. I was thinking swapping all the bushes. Can someone enlight me Solid Subframe Riser? If i have this riser thing, i no longer need my uras super pineapple which is on the car right? Nolathane Poly? SuperPro Poly? Whiteline Poly? Driftwork Poly? i heard some saying superpro is softer than whiteline? I am looking for a harder poly bush actually. ps. Can S15 fit this Steering Adapter or Spacer?
  13. Hi all it have been sometime since i came here. I was thinking of stripping my engine to fix the goddamn lifter. was thinking of changing the timing chain and oil pump. Have any of you guys have use before KAMEARI REINFORCED TIMING CHAIN SR20 or NAPREC Strengthened Timing Chain SR20DE(T) and also the REIMAX Oil Pump Gear Kit can offer me some opinion?
  14. Subframe, Diff, Arms Bushes

    Thanks pmod One more thing is what roberto bring up. Is there any difference with a pop out or flat surface in all bushes around the arms, diff and especially the subframe, like what i have mark in the photo?
  15. Timing chain & Oil Pump

    Ok Thanks mate
  16. Subframe, Diff, Arms Bushes

    For a static subframe bush that doesn't move at all, yes, they're better for fitment. With the poly bonded to the sleave and the sleave press-fitted to the tube, you'll have the most controlled positioning for the bush. It's not recommended for the simple reason that poly bushes bonded to a metal sleave wouldn't actually work, as control arms have to move. The metal sleave can't rotate due to being a press fit, and poly is so much stiffer than rubber that there's virtually no flex. The outcome would be control arms that can't move and subsequently get bent out of shape, or bushes that snap the moment you hit a bump. I have never seen a poly control arm bush that wasn't a slip-in variety that requires lubrication in order to rotate inside the arm's bush housing. Understand that static mounts like subframe bushes don't have the same requirements as rotating mounts like control arms. Over the years I've heard enough "rough ride, squeaks all day" comments about all of the poly bushes from all of the brands, whether it be Nolathane, Energy Suspension, Whiteline, Superpro, etc. To make it clear, I was specifically referring to subframe bushes. Whiteline offer a press-in type subframe bush, but Nolathane does not, so it doesn't matter who owns the company as the product range is different between them. Save yourself headaches and just buy the Whiteline sleaved bush if you want something stiffer than vulcanised rubber. Sure it costs more, but the last thing you want is to have to drop your subframe to fix issues should any crop up. Remember, the poor man pays twice. I don't think you understand what the actual issue with poly bushes is. All poly bushes from all manufacturers require constant re-greasing, otherwise they squeak like a mouse. A grease knurling will help retain grease for longer, extending maintenance intervals, but it WILL eventually have to be re-greased, which is a tedious headache nobody needs. I've even heard of racers of oldschool cars (where poly bushes and oem rubber are the only things on the market for their cars) changing back to oem rubber because they got so sick of dealing with poly bushes. People say a lot of things, but the reality is that all poly bushes are stiff, all poly bushes squeak without constant maintenance, all brands offer mostly the same thing, and all poly control arm bushes are a headache. I only use poly bushes for parts that do NOT move, meaning subframe, rack and swaybar. For everything else, rubber or vulcanised rubber on a street car. haha yeah i understand the meaning of poor man pay twice. that is why i want to make sure it is a one shot job. the rest is just maintenance. so if for the arm i get nismo reinforced bush does that mean vulcanized rubber? man you explain real well.
  17. Timing chain & Oil Pump

    Ohh haha yonks. So will you recommend the Naprec or even the kameari over the Stock Nissan chain? or just stick to the Stock?
  18. Subframe, Diff, Arms Bushes

    NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) Where NVH is concerned, bushes stack in the following order (greater is better NVH, meaning less harsh): Rubber(press-in only) > Vulcanised Rubber (press-in only) > Poly (press-in) > Poly (slip-in) > Alloy If you want to tighten up a street car beyond oem specs, you should only use press-in Vulcanised Rubber bushes for your control arms, or adjustable arms with Vulcanised Rubber mounts (hardened rubber). I'm heavily biased towards Hardrace gear these days (having changed from oem -> spherical bearing arms -> HardRace rubber arms), but any vendor making this type of part/bush would do. Press-in vs Slip-in Bushes vs Spherical/Pillowball Press-in bushes are the ones in a metal sleave [same as oem], in which the rubber is bonded to the sleave, and the sleave can't rotate in the arm. Freedom of motion is great on a track car, but it's pretty shite on a street car, as there's a lot of benefit to having a maintenance-free sprung bush. By this I mean that you need not grease the bush regularly, and the resistance of the bush to torque acts as a secondary vibration damper, assuming you tightened the arm's nuts with the car at the correct ride height like you're supposed to (doesn't matter with poly/solid as they rotate). Slip-in bushes are just blobs of poly/aluminium that you grease up, slot in the bush hole, run a steel bolt tube through and tighten up. They're stiffer than rubber and allow freedom of motion, but they transmit more vibration and require regular lubrication or they constantly squeak. Some bushes can be poly without issue (i.e. rack bushes, swaybar bushes, exhaust hangers), but I wouldn't ever put poly control arm bushes on a street car. Spherical/Pillowball bushes use a sphere mounted in a brass-lined case, and are basically solid metal-to-metal. They rotate freely due to the natural lubrication properties of the liner, but the NVH is way high with these, and they will eventually thrash out and suck balls. Great for track cars, not street cars. Easiest thing is to go to HardRace's website and replace all your LCA and control arm bushes. If you need adjustable arms they have rubber ones too, but otherwise if you can achieve your alignment settings with stock arms, then just replace all the stock bushes with vulcanised rubber bushes and call it a day. There's nothing wrong with the stock arms on most Silvias, with the exception of perhaps the Caster and Camber arms, which don't generally provide enough degrees of adjustment. Subframe risers exist for people with slammed rides, scraping rails, etc, as they level-out your LCAs. Given the extra NVH of solid bushes, for the average street car I would avoid them. You don't need your URAS super pineapple as it is... they lift the subframe even higher, and the S15 already has anti-squat built into the design. Remove them and leave them off. I have Whiteline press-in poly bushes and they don't add too much extra NVH, yet the rear feels fairly solid, so I would recommend them. I'm not inclinded to rate SuperPro and Driftworks stuff based on feedback I've seen for various parts, but they only do slip-in bushes or solid bushes, so that rules them out for a street car anyway. Nope, they don't use a spacer. If by any chance I mentioned this in a past thread, I was mistaken. Check your car's steering shaft in the engine bay and you likely won't see a rubber bush anywhere on it. Hi pmod u mean use poly bushes with sleeve is better than too poly bushed without? why it is not recommend to use with control arm etc? what about nolathane which is a brand under same company as whiteline? i search before superpro, people were saying good about it knurling which trap grease inside, but tend to bit softer am i right? but what are the other negative review?
  19. Timing chain & Oil Pump

    Thanks pmod You mean naprec is too thick? what do you mean by "as stated the factory lastest for yonks"?
  20. Timing chain & Oil Pump

    Hi i am sorry, what a ve pump? i am a sr20det does that mean i using the det pump?
  21. Hi guys, recently found out the my lifter giving off noise and the camshaft on the intake side have abit of worn on 2 of the loop, do you reco that i just continue to use it or i should change the lifter, rocker arm and cams. for cams i am using 256/256 now. i do not know whether i should stay the same for the new cams or upgrade it. btw if upgrade cams and after tuning will the fc increase? need some advice here thanks
  22. Camshaft question

    yeah it was cause by oil block. but it was all fix now. In that case leave the cams alone. I hope the metal missing from that lobe is all sitting safely in the sump, or drained out by now. . yeah. hope everything is out..
  23. Camshaft question

    i am so far still ok with it.