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SR20VET powered s15 - SR22VET time

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I guess I should do a build thread. I've never really gotten round to it.


Bought the car a bit under 2 years ago and did the usual FMIC, exhaust, nistune etc and wheels and suspension. Enjoyed that for a few months (made around 210kw on e85 with stock turbo) and then started losing stupid amounts of coolant. Head is lifting... yay. Bought a new head gasket, ARP studs, HKS cams and prepared to redo the head. As the parts arrived I decided I should just do a simple VE conversion and slowly improve it as I went... that wasn't going to happen.


Long story short, I did v1 of the conversion with a stock bottom end and td06. Eventually all the valve stem seals stopped being effective and I lost compression in cyl 3 - there was a healthy chunk missing between the ringlands, but no damage to the bore.


Then came V2 of the conversion. The aim was a very responsive street/track car.


Specs of the V2 motor;



- s15 block

- 87mm CP 9:1 VE pistons (making around 9.5:1 compression with thinner HG)

- Spool imports rods (aussie company)

- stock crank, ACL bearings, ARP mains, Cometic 1mm HG



- p11 SR20ve head with stock cams

- new guides and seals

- BC springs

- a bit of porting and polising (cleaning up casting marks etc)

- p12 cam solenoid


Other stuff;

- Borg Warner EFR 7163 t4 twin scroll with a TS full race manifold

- Mazworx v2 intake manifold (original one cracked everywhere and was replaced)

- Bosch 2200cc injectors, Turbosmart FPR1200 FPR, Walbro 450LPH e85 pump

- Adaptronic plugin ECU and Race tech dash 3

- Ls2 truck coils

- Z32 gearbox with a NPC ceramic button clutch - will hold 600WHP but feels very very nice to drive

- 4.36 diff

- MCA blue series coilovers



Started as this;





Now looks like this





VE motor fresh from NZ




V1 head setup - p12 CAS and taarks relocation stuff




Taarks stuff




VCT Drain Block. VVL head feed also blocked




V1 as it ran for a couple of months before losing compression, seemingly due to degrading valve stem seals




Cracks in the old Mazworx manifold




Old Vs new. Different design and support structures/radiused edges




Close up of the improvements




Piston 3 - Bore had no damage to it!




Filthy CCs. Lots of oil







Doing a bit of smoothing. There's a nasty ledge on the backside of the valve. Apparently removing this should help




Bored and honed to 87mm and decked with VE oil pump




87mm 9:1 Comp CP pistons courtesy Defsport




Full race exhaust manifold supporting the super awesome t4 twin scroll EFR 7163. I'll be using the boost control solenoid, standard actuator (will get a high boost canister) and included compressor recirc valve.




Clean Head




Motor done and ready to go in.




You can see the p12 solenoid mounted here with the oilfeed supplied directly to the solenoid block




In and ready to start!




About 500km into the run in now and so far it feels absolutely great to drive! It honestly feels the same if not better down low than my original setup with DET/t28 and I have barely any timing at the moment and only running a medium canister with no boost control assistance.


It'll always be run on e85 so i'll be able to push it quite hard and it seems like it'll do 370rwkw/500WHP and rev over 8000rpm. I'll be seariously impressed by this, especially since it feels so great down low.








Edited by nicknack

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Very nice build..


Great choice on the turbo, i went the 7670 on a std head.. a little too big for the SR.. going back to a 7163..

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Awesome build!!!


Might do something similar at some stage!

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Cheers guys!


Yeah. I'm curious to see what it does too. Best I've seen is 540hp at all 4 wheels on a sti in the states, but nothing on an sr20 or similar.


Did about 500-600km and the car ran amazingly. Had the missus drive for a while so I could do some tuning. Dialed in a solid chunk more timing and the thing feels way nicer and sounds heaps different. Run in is done, but there's a few more things I'd like to tidy up first before tune

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am thinking of doing something very similar to my s13 starting in the next couple of months :) looks fantastic man it gives me so much more motivation haha

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can you post more pics! as most of those FB photos don't load for me :(

I'm in the middle of a VE rebuild only at the collecting part stage sadly, Picked up a P12 head from the states and i want to go with an EFR turbo but low mount

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Weird, the photos are all public and work fine for me when i'm not logged into facebook.


Here's the link to the album which is public https://www.facebook.com/nick.bucher.5/media_set?set=a.10151680781466689.1073741829.533476688&type=3



Full race only do low mount manifolds for 6758 (maybe 7064) and smaller. 7163 and above are high mount only I think. But i'm sure you could get it done locally.

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very strange since we are facebook friends lol.


Since I'm from Vic a low mount is almost essential to keep out of trouble!

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Not yet. I'm overseas until mid-dec so there's been nothing done to the car. Tune is booked in for the 19th Dec though.


I had a chance to do some more fiddling with the ECU and gets things running nicer/smoother and things like boost control working well. I think I got to around 1.6bar which is the max of the medium boost canister without any issues, so hopefully the tune goes well.


I'm not too sure what i'll end up settling with for power. I'll probably have a low boost of 25psi which will be around 330kw and then a high boost 30-35psi which will be high 300s from what i've seen. That is assuming nothing in the setup restricts the turbo and the P11 cams go well.

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yeah i got it tuned. Turned out something is restricting it so it only made 300kw. That's on a year old mainline dyno so definitely would be a higher on most other dynos.


We had boost start at 23psi and then added more up top (29psi) but it was leaning out so we didn't bring the boost up in the midrange. It took 90% wastegate duty to make that boost so there's definitely a lot of exhaust back pressure. I think my flex join in the down pipe is messing with flow.


I'm still quite happy though as it essentially has a 4000rpm powerband and plenty down low. Cams switch to high lobe at 3500rpm as they made more torque from then on.

Edited by nicknack

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3in the whole way.


I checked the flex join in the dump pipe and it seems fine. Neither the.mid or rear muffler is collapsed/blocked but I'll cut out the mid muffler anyway

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hmm, id say you should go 3.5 inch system all the way throught, the engine your running flows very fast and ALOT so bigger exhaust system would probably help, the toruqe is really high compared to the power ive never seen that before lol

Edited by jiri styles

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Yeah I dunno why the torque is so high, its definitely not accurate. Maybe its a flywheel estimation.


I'll try 3in without the mid muffler and if that still doesn't do it, ill do 3.5in.


My plan is to take the car for a spin without any exhaust from the dump pipe back and see if boost increases. Then I'll see if the restriction is removed.

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Haven't updated in ages! Much has happened!


Got it tuned with the p11 cams and Mazworx manifold. Made 302kw with 29psi at red line. We did a 23psi run then started adding more up top. Didn't fill in the mid-range with boost as it was leaning out - more on that further down. Dissapointing result! It's a mainline dyno which reads lower than most, but I still expected at least 350kw. I think the exhaust I have was restricting. I've made some changes since then though;




Ditched the mazworx manifold and got a xcessive plenum




That flat bar bolts to the runners and then the rail bolts to the flat bar. It's very solid and can't move around.




Got the last brand new p12 intake cam!! (sorry guys) and bought a used exh p12 cam off a mate.




Started leaning out on the dyno originally (we started adding boost up top and didn't bother spending time on the mid range boost once we realised we didn't have enough fuel flow) so I modded the stock s15 fuel tank lid for an AN6 setup and potted the connector with a DT 4 way plug attached. I now have a -6 teflon line to the filter and then rail. Internal diameter is now almost double the stock line!!!!






Did evo brembos on the front. Needed a 10mm spacer to clear and longer studs. Effective stance specs are now a super hella 17x9 +12 with 255s up front :cool:




Took it to get retuned (different tuner this time) which went terribly.... He didn't realise (me neither) that the timing was locked at 5 degrees and just assumed my cams were retarded. Melted the oil drain for the turbo and replaced it on the dyno and melted it again. Melted the AC line which caused some fire but no damage since I got to the extinguisher quick. Melted the feed line too. Was generally ****ty.




I went nuts with heat management on the hot side. Every line got sleeved in speedflow stuff. Dump pipe got wrapped. I'll be doing some more soon, but it is up to task now.






Engine bay currently looks like this




Did a motorkhana (wet pan) day with my girlfriend and absolutely thrashed the living daylights out of the car - she's not a good co-driver. Lesson learnt.



Then did a circuit day a few days ago. Car went really really well! It hasn't been retuned for power yet with the new cams/manifold, but felt really good on low boost (23psi tapering to 16psi) on just the small cam and very low timing (about 15 degrees from about 3500rpm onwards). Only issue was the hot pipe silicone elbow popping off.


I did a 1:08.5 which is good, but I still have another 1-1.5s in it with just sway bars and another days worth of street time. Tyres were hankook RS3s and I have MCA Blue coils with 6/4kg springs which are much too soft. The lap in the video was before I checked the alignment mid-day and had about 4mm total toe out! Was not fun to drive.




Plan is to do another circuit day mid April and then Early June. Not sure when i'll get it tuned, but i'll post up results.


And one last video, cause everyone like a bit of limiter bashing :woot:


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Love love love SRVE setups !


How much power did it make last with the change of tuner?

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It made shit all power because timing was locked at 5 degrees instead of the 15-20deg it could've been up top.


I might get it retuned for power in may, but right now I'm happy with it on low boost with a conservative tune

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update time!


Not much has happened since the last post.


I started a new coil pack sub-loom. I wanted to try some proper techniques (concentric twist, strain relief etc) as opposed to just measure, layout and wrap. Turned out ok. I'm not happy with each individual offshoot so I think i'll pull off the shrink and make them a bit nicer. I struggled with getting neat/compact splices but I think i've worked on that.











I added a intercooler spray which seems to help slow down heat soak on the track.




Pulled off the compressor housing so a mate could weld on an 90* elbow, but we never got around to it and didn't want to leave it till a day before the track.




Cleaned it up and put the silicon elbow back on nice and tightly as it popped off frequently last track day.




Heat wrapped some more thaaaangs




It seems that the shroud on my thermos is restricting airflow at higher speeds and even at 120km/h on a 15*c day the water temp would still keep rising until the fans came on and brought the temp back down to 79*c before switching off. Obviously the fans shouldn't be able to do much at 120km/h so it had to be an airflow issue. A mate suggested cutting a slot and adding a flap to the shroud as pictured below and that seemed to help a fair bit. Flap blows open when the air speed is higher than fans sucking air in. At idle the fans suck the flap closed. It's still not enough so i'll cut some more slots in it.




Went over the engine bay and torque sealed anything I could find.








Great turbo weather!!!






Yes... that boat did go out on the track






FLy by vid. 205-210km/h at the end of the straight




Car went so so well. I didn't have to do a thing besides adjust tyre pressure and shocks and add fuel. I expected to have front and rear whiteline sway bars but "early may" turned into "mid july" delivery.... yay. Shaved 0.1s off my best of 1:08.5 with a passenger in the car. I'm sure I could get a few more 10ths off with another day, but realistically sway bars and better brake fluid should give me much easier gains.


Plans are to finish pulling out the air con system and move/flip the intercooler under the rad support for super short piping and easy ducting. Hopefully sometime in July i'll go get the car tuned, but i'm not in a rush as running it off the spring is more than enough with safe timing.

Edited by nicknack

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As funny as the shroud with a flap looks it does make somewhat sense when you think about it.. But generally that shouldnt be a problem you run into really.

Alot of people out there even in the 400kw territory running standard fan shround and using the car with drifting which is even less air flow overall.


Have you thought about adding a swirl pot?

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Yeah super stoked at how simple and effective it was.


Haven't thought about adding a swirl pot as I don't really know what it does/what the benefits are

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