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nicknack

SR20VET powered s15 - SR22VET time

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Shit go man.

Are you going to take it to a different tuner this time?

 

Was it detonating or just had a massive oil starvation?

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I don't think it was detonation. Looks like one bearing wore much faster than the others and that sent debris through the engine which accelerated the wear. That's the most likely cause from what we could see when we inspected it.

 

Just one of those bad luck moments I guess.

 

 

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bummer, no good.

I opted the JHH girdle with their studs to suit and insert washers, better clearance from what I seen side by side.

 

12479146_971252749621525_1282875147_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE5MjQ0NTU4NDM3MjYxMzM1MA%3D%3D.2

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Interesting. The plazmaman one comes with a spacer for the oil pick-up, but I was going to measure and lengthen the pickup or machine another spacer to fine tune.

 

Dropped everything off at Duncan Foster engineering. Should be ready to start assembling in a few weeks

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Shit go man.

Are you going to take it to a different tuner this time?

 

Was it detonating or just had a massive oil starvation?

 

Mark is a very confident tuner, I would trust him over the likes of Advan, CRD, Powertune, Tunehouse, Unigroup (Mr 88888888 LOLOL) etc.. (listing in alphabetical order to avoid favoritism).

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Not too sure who I'll go to for tuner. Maybe mark at MRC again because he knows Adaptronics very well and help develop them.

 

Everything is at the machinist now so should be someone time in the next week or 2 I get it all back.

 

I've been speaking to Adrian from Franklin cams and he's designed a set of cams to suit my engine.

 

Low lobes 268/275 duration .370” valve lift

 

Vtec lobes 286/295 duration .440”/.450” valve lift

 

Love the high lobe, but think the low lobe might be a bit big. He will be revising it for something lower duration, higher lift

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What happened is a bit unfortunate man but good to see you've stuck with a rebuild

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Spun a bearing.

 

 

 

Had a productive long weekend.

 

Welded 2x 1/8 NPT bungs onto the hot pipe to measure pressure pre intercooler and temp out of the compressor.

 

28615259531_cd668bd1fa_z_d.jpg

 

Welded a flange for a turbosmart race port I picked up cheap. Getting way better at alloy now. Always had trouble getting a good pool formed on corner joints like this. Butt welds I never had a problem with

 

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Nice and close to the throttle, so should response pretty quick

 

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Went to Motorsport connections and got all the bits for my oil cooler kit. -10 line throughout, 25 row setrab cooler (much smaller than I expected) and Mocal inline thermostat

 

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Thermostat wasn't too easy to fit anywhere. Battery is being relocated to the boot. This is roughly the final placement. Will make brackets next weekend.

 

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Got the cams this morning. Interesting lobe shape. This is with the revised, lower duration low lobe

 

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Dropped them off to the engine shop who will be completing the block tomorrow and will work on the head during the week.

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Had a few good deliveries and bits of progress this week. Engine just needs to be line honed and decked on Monday. Assembly will be next weekend.

 

Got my King bearings - GTI-R mains and 19mm rod bearings. The slots in the mains seem like they'll flow considerably more than the stock 5 hole setup

 

28744852311_5fa93d7a1d_z_d.jpg

 

Picked up the crank, rods and head from the machine shot. Check out the huge difference in unbalance figures. This is for a brand new nitto 2.2L crank.... Should be a massive improvement.

 

28206847063_ec900f40d1_z_d.jpg

 

Started fabbing a 3.5" exhaust. Got about to the axle so far. Welds came out really nicely once I reduce the tungsten stick out

 

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downpipe with wideband and pressure sensor fittings. The local speedflow dealer reckon a braided teflon line should be fine from the downpipe to the ECU in the cabin. I guess with e85 and being behind the turbo they might be right.

 

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Ridiculously clean head - all new valve train except for rockers and shafts

 

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really happy with how the combustion chambers turned out. Didn't want to grind down the spark plug lump because it would've reduced chamber volume enough to take compression lower than I wanted

 

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Shiny CCs

 

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Oil pickup was modded to sit way lower than a stock p11. Used the VE flange, some 1" tube and welded it to a RWD DET strainer. Didn't weld too badly after wire brush, brake cleaner and some preheat blow torch love

 

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oil pickup clearance is now 3-5mm at the lowest point which is considerably better than a stock p11 pickup at i'd say 30mm clearance.

 

28206757803_b3097732f3_z_d.jpg

 

Should have some good photos next weekend once assembly is done! It won't find it's way into the car until the weekend after

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Thanks.

 

Should have some more engine porn pics this weekend. Started assembly last weekend but ran into some bumps. I'm in no rush, so it was never gonna be 'she'll be right, let's just finish it'

IMG_20160814_190000.jpg

Edited by nicknack

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loving this thread

 

just FYI - i see your learning welding DIY spec.

don't weld shit with brake cleaner on it, you will go blind.

i assume you know this, some cleaner/solvents when welded cause drastic changes to the body when inhaled.

 

apart from that, keep up the awesome work!

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Thanks for the tip. I do use brake cleaner sometimes, but usually wait a while before welding after cleaning stuff.

 

 

Continued assembly this weekend. Lots of measuring and checking and cleaning. Clearances are all spot on and stupidly consistent. Crank spun really freely.

 

Pistons and rods. I absolutely hate the c-clips that hold in the wrist pins. Very Very difficult to get it.

 

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Tank combo - The thickest option wrist pin.

 

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There is plenty of oil squirter to crank clearance

 

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Stretching rod bolts

 

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Stretching setup consisted of a 11mm ring spanner on the bolt head, stretch gauge constantly sitting there showing live stretch. With the stretch gauge just sitting there it'd always show around 0.002" most stretch, so I'd do a proper check to confirm. Everything ended up at a 0.0067" stretch as per the nitto manual.

 

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Girdle will hopefully seal nicely with gasket goo. Shame it doesn't retain ability to use the stock brace for the oil pickup. My welds were tank, so it should be fine without the brace.

 

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Assembled and ready for accessories

 

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Machine shop lost one of the bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place. No chance finding another, so I repurposed a rocker cover bolt. Chucked the head in a lathe and turned it down. Easy

 

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Worked out compression. Bang on target of 10:1

 

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I'll be chucking bits and pieces on during the week, installing the head and checking piston-to-valve clearances and dialing in the cams. Aim is to have it in the car next weekend so I can finish exhaust etc.

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Are you just following manuals, videos etc, or have you done something like that before?

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All of the above. Lots of reading, picking up tips here and there. A mate was helping me assemble and he didn't most of the measuring for clearances etc. Since he's a tool maker, so knows his way around micrometers

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Yeah! Got pretty lucky being able to use the living room. Made it much nicer to work on.

 

Have just been putting bits and pieces on it to prepare it to be dropped in the engine bay this weekend. Then it's a case of doing the oil lines and exhaust.

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I love the fact you're building this in your living room? if I did such thing the missus would stab me in my sleep

That's why you stab that cunt first

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Engine assembled and sealed. Cams are in at stock position. That should be within a couple of degrees of intended angles. Will dial in later on. Need to get an extension for my dial indicator

 

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A big oversight on my part. Didn't account for the effect of the extra 9.6mm the billet girdle added. The holes on the upper sump don't line up with the bellhousing/adaptor plate holes.There was enough meat on there to drill and tap a new hole from a helicoil.

 

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You can see the overlap, but there was enough meat for the helicoil to go in nicely and allow me to get the bolt torqued up to spec.

 

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engine fairly easily once I realised the engine mounts were on the wrong side. Looks like they won't work on the correct side (which moves the engine back) with the p12 cas. I might try switching them now that the motor is in the car, but getting it in with them on the opposite side was just not happening

 

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Lots of nice -10 Speedflow nylon braided lines.

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Thermostat placement ended up under the battery tray. Way better than what I had planned and means I don't have to relocate the battery. I still will eventually and put a catchcan where the battery would go.

28664888573_ab73096d17_z_d.jpg

 

Filter placement (behind BOV) should make things nice and easy.

29177285712_97069fde44_z_d.jpg

 

This wasn't my first choice in cooler placement. Ideally I would've had it under the battery tray behind the fog light opening. I will have to make some ducting to make sure air goes through the cooler, not around

28662980874_e8abb6b60f_z_d.jpg

 

Kinda annoying that the fancy pro series intercooler that cost $1200 sits off centre meaning I have to cut a small section out of the chassis rail and remove a fair bit off the crash bar. not the end of the world, but maybe if they'd welded the lower supports on in the correct spot there wouldn't been no need.

 

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How it sits at the moment. Need to pull the Exhaust manifold off to weld on a -3 fitting for my pressure sensor. Got a half meter of stainless hardline made up and will run vac hose from that to the ECU

 

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If anyone has ever wondered how the marks on the oil dipstick correspond with the oil level in the motor. The top indent corresponds with the girdle, the bottom indent corresponds with the windage tray

 

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Bought some e85 additive. Was going to buy some of the VP racing additive (the candy smelling one), but Motorsport connections rate this higher

 

29285525075_ba21e9c1b7_z_d.jpg

 

Plan is to do little bits and pieces during the week in the evenings between work and study so I can finish the exhaust on Saturday and drive it on sunday.

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Not keen. I'd rather just run full time e85. This costs $4 a tank so it's no real cost. I've never really needed to run 98, so don't think I'll go flex. I have a sensor I'm going to use for logging purposes, but I don't want my tune relying on it full time.

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This is mega.

 

Wanted to put a VE head on my SR22 but couldn't justify the cost at the time, the noise alone is worth it!

 

Are VE heads easily/readily available in Aus? Here in the UK they are rare and come with a nice premium.

 

Would deffo look into this route when I come over and build a 180sx.

 

Good luck with the latest build mate, look forward to seeing it progress.

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The p11 heads here are pretty cheap now

But the p12's still hold their value

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It's alive! Started first go on e85. Not bad. Ran it at varying rpm between 2-3k to run the cams in, get the oil up to temp and check for leaks. Couldn't drive it as the diff wasn't ready. Putting diff in Tuesday night and going for a nice hard run in drive through the twisties.

 

Cams were adjust close to where they should be. I was using the base circle, but Franklin suggest measuring everything 0.05" from peak lift on the high lobe. Will be redoing to that method. This mazworx took is great for a baseline

 

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So close

 

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New Adaptronic m2000 modular ecu. Very keen to play with this. Has 2x inbuilt MAP sensors, one for exhaust manifold pressure and one for intake. Idea is that it can calculate VE quite accurately

 

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28844614674_e60eb2abdf_z_d.jpg

Edited by nicknack

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good luck man!

 

the new euguene software is pretty decent.. still has a few bugs, but it's not that bad... funnily enough, I prefer the old WARI.. easier to locate menus, etc.

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Took it for a run in drive. Did 120km of hard driving faultlessly. I think the exhaust cam is fairly retarded as its hitting 30psi just under 3.5k with minimal preload and no boost control intervention. All I can say is WOW! so much torque! I didn't expect anywhere near this level. I can't wait to dial in the cams and ignition timing which should add even more torque down low.

 

The idle sounds beefy too

 

 

Plan for the weekend is to dial in cams, hook up the vvl and ditch the ****ty k20a coils for my LS coils. Seemed to be getting spark blowout at around 23psi

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