Mattsx 1 Posted October 3, 2016 How do you find the 7163 up in the revs? I know the VE helps makes them responsive as fuck, but I'm worried about the compressor running out of puff up top. Currently undecided between a 7670 and 8374 for my 2 litre VE build Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) It's got plenty up top. With the 2L it was fine to 8500. Tapered slightly with the p12 cams but I had the intake advanced a bit much. Not sure what this new motor will do with it. Hoping I can get at least an 8200rpm rev limit, but 8500rpm should be doable. Depends on what your power goals are. 7163 is probably the best turbo you can get for the 350-400kw range. Not sure it'd do 400kw on a fair dyno, but the curve would be way nicer than 400kw on a garrett/precision etc. 8374 would be my pick for anything >400kw. I'm hitting my 30psi cut at 3300rpm with barely any preload on the wastegate. Timing is a bit low, but once I'll be raising that and adding more preload, so it should cancel out. 30psi should stay under 3500rpm Pulled the manifold off to fix a leak Ports don't look too bad. Much cleaner Finished my 3.5" exhaust Spend the last couple days doing the new wiring for the new ECU and a shit load of sensors. Water temp Oil Temp Fuel temp Exhaust temp Post cooler air temp Pre cooler air temp Oil press Water pressure Intake manifold pressure (ECU onboard sensor) Compressor outlet pressure Exhaust manifold pressure Fuel pressure Ethanol % Turbo speed sensor Still have a spare input or two but can't really see much extra. Maybe another oil pressure sensor so I have pre and post filter or a engine in and engine out oil temp. Edited October 3, 2016 by nicknack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ru55kj 1 Posted October 4, 2016 That's gonna be loud Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted October 4, 2016 Yeah it is a bit louder than before. Tempted to get a varex. Also considering making a Helmholtz resonator because there are crazy loud harmonics around 2100-2300rpm, which is coincidentally the point in the map where I have to add something like 20% extra fuel to keep AFRs smooth. Not sure what's going on there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted October 16, 2016 Continued on with installing the new ECU and getting everything setup. Had to make an extension for my EGT probe otherwise it would've stuck out way too far. Was originally planning on running it on CYL 4 but was advised to do it at the collector to get better resolution. It's a Honeywell resistive probe. Rated at 800*c continuous, 1000*c for 1 minute. Should be more than good enough Love this photo. Looks like I was able to weld it without the flange warping. You can see that there's not black soot which usually shows where a leak is Had to weld a 1/8th bung onto a -6an sensor adaptor. came out ok, but welding right up near the nut was quite hard and needs another pass Drilled the compressor cover for the speed sensor. Super easy to do. Fully loaded turbo! EGT and pressure line placement Engine bay as it sits at the moment Had to order some new hose to redo the water line from turbo to water neck as the EGT sensor sits in the way. I also need to think of something for the water pressure sensor as it's position on the water neck interferes with the wastegate actuator. Few little things left to set up with the ECU. It's been a much slower process than I hoped, mainly due to the lack of documentation since the new adaptronic ECUs aren't fully released. I'm also adding so much stuff, it takes a fair bit of time to test and calibrate everything. Hopefully I can have it running next weekend and tune in a month or so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted November 6, 2016 Bit of a not so happy update. Everything was going really well with the car, ECU was working better and better and I was getting it nice and dialed in, but started to notice my exhaust was very smokey, particularly when taking off after idle. Long story short, the machine shop who assembled the head either installed the exhaust valve stem seals incorrectly or didn't properly measure (if at all) the retainer to seal clearance (which apparently is negative!) As you can see in the pics, the seals got pretty munched albeit not consistently across all valves. Chambers were not terrible, but id' expect cleaner for e85 only use. Same with pistons Modified my TAARKS water neck to take 1/8th sensors. One temp one pressure. Make a DIY rig to test my injector flow and see how close they were. They weren't very nice, so they're getting sent off for some treatment. As you can imagine i'm pretty pissed off about the valve stem seal issue necessitating pulling off the head and leaving the bottom end exposed! I've not got to get a new headgasket as well. This really increases the chance of debris getting in, no matter how careful and paranoid I am. I gave the pistons, deck and bores a good spray with wd40/rub of oil and covered/sealed the deck so no moisture can cause issues. Hoping this head is a quick turnaround so I can seal it back up! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted December 28, 2016 After all the dramas with the valv stem seals, the engine shop completely redid the head - all new guides and seals. 2x exhaust valves (cyl 1 and 3) were bent despite me having >3mm piston to valve clearance, so I think they either installed wrong initially or damaged them on the bench. They replaced them for free. Head doesn't breathe oil now. You can see how bad the old exhaust seals were Ever since I put the new ECU in and relocated the battery i've had massive misfiring issues. I narrowed it down and found that battery voltage seems to correlate very strongly with the misfire. Turns out that the coilpacks weren't getting enough amps. I installed a new switched relay and ran a 25a cable from the relay to the coil sub harness. You can see the red line below - the voltage would fluctuate wildly above 20psi and drop down to 12v at times. Turns out this was due to spark energy going back through the coil. Issue fixed. You can see how stable the voltage line is (top green line) with the exception of where it goes rich and the coilpack is unable to properly overcome the resistance of the extra fuel volume, in turn loading up the electrical system. Bought some new tyres. Federal 595 RS-RR. They seem to go very well. Haven't given them a proper run to see how they match the RS3s though. Did a lap of Mt Panorama whilst I was in Bathurst over Christmas. The speed limit is only 60km/h which is boring. To give you an idea of how steep it is coming through the first chicane after the skyline. Working on finishing my fuel tank bulkhead as my modded stock plastic one was starting to fail. The epoxy I used didn't stand up well to ethanol so was starting to leak. Engine bay currently. Plan is to get my resistive EGT sensor working with the ECU (need to pull the signal up to 5v which i'm having trouble with) and then I can go for a tune. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Well, an update, sort of. My modified tank bulkhead started leaking a lot because the potting compound I used doesn't like ethanol. I found some delrin washers which have a step and orings to locate and seal and are internally threaded. They work a bit. But there's still fuel coming through somehow. I then booked in a tune which didn't go great. We couldn't get it to stop misfiring! We tried some more timing (around 16deg above 4k at 1.5bar) , new coil packs, fancy double iridium plugs (helped) but nothing fixed it. It'd misfire at anything above 1.1bar. The result we did get was 275kw at the wheels (low reading mainline) on 15psi using 50% throttle.... Super impressed with that. Andy from Adaptronic came out to help set up the new modular ecu. He got rid of my normal Accel enrichments and set up xtau enrichments. Immediately impressed at how quick and easy it was to set up. You need to work it out empirically by estimating what percent of fuel sticks to the cyl walls and how long it takes to evaporate and enter the cylinder. There's no 'enrichments' the idea is it jumps straight to the correct AFR. I tested my ls2 coils after the tune and they didn't stop the misfire! Dropped timing a couple of degrees and it got worse... Tried three more and the misfires nearly vanished! Ended up with 20deg ish at 1.5bar and man does it pull! Max turbo rpm is just over 100k Will book in a tune for a couple of weeks to get some proper results. A 3rd and 4th gear pull up a good sized hill - 23psi. The cut you hear if the ECU doing a short engine protection cut as oil pressure seems to drop a bit when the revs jump quickly. Foot was flat the whole time. Edited January 31, 2017 by nicknack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu 161 Posted February 1, 2017 yep the map prediction table is bullshit, because your TPS representation could result on a different load on the motor.. you never can get it right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted February 1, 2017 I had it working quite well with map prediction and Accel/asynchronous enrichment. I'm still using map prediction with xtau. The live rolling AFR log really helps. If you tip in and it goes rich, lean, target, you have too much enrichment for too short a time. You then adjust it until the initial dip is to target and increase the time to smooth it. The point of xtau though is that there's no 'enrichments' to guess the amount of fuel that doesn't make it into the cylinder, you enter the amount that doesn't go to the cylinder and it works out the required fuel based on that. A lot of the OEMs are using this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wing_ 4 Posted February 11, 2017 I was wondering how your car was going, nice to see an update Keep up the good work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicknack 10 Posted March 4, 2017 I've been lazy with updates. Went for a tune but still had misfires! they'd come and go and eventually got worse and worse. Turns out the bosch leads I had are a bit loose on the LS2 coils so the spark was jumping 2 gaps. We were able to close down the terminal on the lead to get better contact and squeeze in a couple of power runs. The car was 335kw on just over 20psi and we weren't revving over 8k (more on that later). Timing wasn't pushed as we didn't get enough runs in. Turbospeed is about 110k (154k limit) so there's is plenty left. Cams wanted to be switched at 4200rpm. I'd added a 4 port wastegate actuator with a 12psi spring and a 4 port solenoid. We can hold 12psi across the revs with ease. Worked out the curve of the engine along the RPM axis and what RPM needed what duty cycle to keep a flat boost curve and then we could just add 20% and get a flat curve at a new pressure. We settled for a 21psi ish high boost curve. Next one will be closer to 30! That's around 200kw at 4000rpm. Would love to see what it could've done with more timing and boost down there! Before the tune I swapped my bosch 2200cc Injectors for xspurt 1550s. They're amazing. I thought the 2200s were pretty easy to tune, but the 1550s are in another league. They're incredibly smooth and respond much better at lower pulsewidths. They're 'flow matched' Bosch 1500s. 1550s on the right in the picture below We could see 'waterhammer' from the 2200s on the dyno previously, so I decided to installed a fuel pulse damper on the rail. Seems to have helped in combo with the new injectors. Splashed out on a MSD lead kit after the tune - wish I did this in the beginning. Such good quality and instantly stronger spark Car ran strong - no misfires I've been having issues with oil surge on very hard accelerating in second gear or third gear up a big hill. It wasn't RPM increase rate dependent as snap wheelspin to 8k rpm in the wet in first and second didn't do it, it was only in the dry when the car had good traction and just shot away like a bat out of hell that i'd get about a 1bar drop in pressure around 6k rpm causing the ECU to cut power. I tried adding more oil - no change. A mate and I mocked up a sump, pump/pickup and upper pan and decided to test with water one night. It was pretty clear that on hard acceleration, oil would easily escape through the big hole in the windage tray and find it's way to the back of the oil pan, leaving the pickup to suck in air. This was obviously not such a problem in higher gears where the G-force was less. We came up with a baffle to stop this. I added a bit of extra side clearance to help drainback I'm pretty happy with the power as is, so might just leave it like that for a few months before going back for more boost and power. I have a track day in a couple of days so will be good to finally get the car doing what I wanted it to do! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu 161 Posted March 22, 2017 any feedback back after the track day? I noticed you left your car outside to be towed home Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dat14u 0 Posted March 23, 2017 Are you bringing this beast to ndn17.com? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
