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The Big Fist

Z32 vs Z33 Vs RB25 Vs ? Gearbox Options

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Another option is cut and shut, looks like you use the front half of the case though.

 

srz.jpg

 

I did a Z32 box conversion with one of this guys cutnshut RB bellhousing, an RB25 front cover plate, and xcessivemanufacturing brackets/crossmember/shifter relocation. I had a free gearbox, so even with an overpriced tailshaft, it was in my car for

 

CD009 looks like a serious upgrade again. I know you've put it in an S15 to maintain what you have/improve strength, but for dunger S13's 6 speed is nice as a budget "close ratio" mod or whatever. options..

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I used an adapter plate with my Z33 conversion. Slave cylinder is no where near the exhaust. And justt made up a line for it.

 

All fits like a glove after a bit of tunnel love. No rotating boxes or anything to get the thing in and out, just loosen the cross member a little, by about 10mm and in/out it goes.

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Yeah drop the engine cross member is what I meant. The bolts are at least twice as long as what I drop them by.

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Thanks Sam,

Holy fuckballs this thing is heavy. I got lazy and got a couple of my guys to help fitting it. We all gave up and got the forklift in to slide the forks under the car to lift it.

We need to check which throwout bearing to use as well. The shorter one supplied with the clutch kit or the longer 350z one supplied with the gearbox. I am leaning towards the shorter one.

Pics to come....

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Please do!

Iv got a Carbonetics twin plate that I was using with the s15 6speed. I'm unsure if it will work out of the box or if it needs a different flywheel.

Throwout bearing was another question that wasn't answered.

 

Did you go with the bronze Pilot bearing or the nismo roller bearing?

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Bit of a fuck around day. Will update with pics maybe tomorrow. Basically the instructions I had were old and turns out not applicable to S15.

First major issue was installing the pilot bush into the crank. Supplied is a tool to insert it seen as it needs to be slightly deeper into the crank, not flush !

Unfortunately the tool struggled with the last 3mm. With some "persuasion" it made it in. Second issue was with the gearbox installed the throwout bearing was hard up against the clutch and we couldn't bolt the gearbox up. Thirdly the starter motor needs to have a bit of the lip ground off.

So after some panic reading. Turns out there is a NEW instruction manual which address the above issues. They now say to machine off 3mm of the pilot bush or better yet use the Nismo roller bearing. Too late, bush installed, that's what we're using.

Secondly. For S15 you must use the sr for pivot ball etc. So now all fits well with this with what looks like correct amount of play.

Lastly you need to get special bolt kit from Mazworxs to bolt the bell housing to the block. I've requested the bolt sizes and will just source locally. If they don't supply I'll just work it out.

Starter motor issue looks to be a slightly smaller casting on the bell housing than what is required. Just in one section.

 

On the plus side. The kit seems to move the gearbox forward a bit more than the other kits. So no smashy smashy on the tunnel. There is one close area that could do with it but has not been done. Also we tilted the engine forward a little to get the box on and off. Generally it looks like it goes in and out easier than stock !

 

So few stuff ups due to old instructions. But getting there surely. Very impressed with fitment so far.

Also I stole a mates GKTech shifter so will see how will it bolts in. It is meant to mean no cutting of the tunnel.

 

Cheers !

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shit yeah ! glad to see a z33 conversion that doesnt require half the tunnel to be smashed to bits and shifter closer to stock position!

 

please do post up lots of pix ha! love to see how it all lines up :)

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So car's been sitting here for Months.

20160831_173707.jpg

 

Now this step which is installing the pilot bush was a cunt. We got the bush in but the last 3mm was a nightmare. It looks like the crank is somewhat tapered on the inside bore and is why the new instructions say to use the nismo roller bearing (shorter) or take 3mm(1/8) off the bush.

The tool is just a stepped piece of Aluminum.

 

Line it up (pilot bush is bronze bit on the tool)

20160831_141917.jpg

 

Whammo

20160831_142932.jpg

 

Done

20160831_143117.jpg

Edited by The Big Fist

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Pics of tunnel before gearbox so you can see no sneaky mods.

There was some bashing already existing from previous stock 6 speed removal and reinstall.

 

20160831_142020.jpg

20160831_142025.jpg

20160831_143213.jpg

 

 

Soon...

UrCZp6N.gif

 

20160831_145803.jpg

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Now this is where I kind of gave up. That box is damn fricken heavy and being work hours I can't really spend all day playing cars.

So got some of the boys to fit it under direction but the downside is minimal pictures.

 

Anyway !

 

For the clutch I used an Extreme S13 ceramic twin plate sprung center.

It comes with its own throwout bearing. Use this with your stock SR fork and SR pivot ball. Failing to do this and choosing to use the nice robust tough as Z33 fork and nice new Z33 throwout bearing WILL NOT WORK. We actually did get a combo to work but it was a combination of a lot of part chopping and changing. Stick to the stock parts.

 

To fit the box we slid a forklift under the car to raise it easily. Nismo transmission mount installed to trans member.

20160831_173718.jpg

20160901_084111.jpg

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And......

It's in

 

20160901_162648.jpg

20160901_162719.jpg

20160901_162729.jpg

20160901_162818.jpg

20160901_162828.jpg

 

This is the only place that it is pretty close. It looks worse in the photos. Probably a good 5-6mm.

I am not going to worry about it unless I start getting issues at the track.

 

20160901_163024.jpg

20160901_164246.jpg

20160901_164257.jpg

Edited by The Big Fist

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I tried out mates Gktech no cutting shifter thing.

Please note, the bolts are loose and its sloping back a lot. It does move forward maybe 10-15mm.

Not as central as I thought it would be especially seen as the Mazworx kit pushes the gearbox forward a good 12mm I read today.

 

20160901_165418.jpg

 

 

Issue with the starter motor. Hard to see in the picture but the casting is a little too small at the top. There is a lip on the starter motor that centralises it into the bell housing. I think I am going to have to trim a small section of that back to get it in. Not all of it as it's required to support the motor during cranking.

 

20160901_164022.jpg

20160901_165621.jpg

 

So need to sort out shifter, decide wether to use gktech or just cut the tunnel and install the Mazworx shifter.

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Yep, will need to extend the harness too.

There was a few cunts being thrown around today that's for sure.

At least once this thing is done and running I can attempt to get this 7163 retuned by someone else.

LOL, SAU thread being shutdown.

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Is already shut down, cunts saying 1990s GT2535 turbos are better than an EFR.

 

Morons.

 

Just like some fuck wit cunts saying a GT2871 is better than a GTX2867, get the fuck out of town.

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Yeah I was reading it regularly. So many tards.

 

Mazworx sent through the bolt lengths which is great.

They advised to use the Nismo roller bearing though which is confusing.

There's no way I am pulling all that off again to replace the bearing.

So watch this space for gearbox explosion in the future.

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Group buy with Nicknak :) I've already tracked it and it's a beast !

Plus it's all about the Transient Response (lol).

 

Well looks like the starter doesn't want to bolt up to the bell housing. Grinding the lip off the starter will make it fit.

I am wondering if maybe a S13 starter would have fitted better as it looks as though they don't have the lip.

Will need to check engagement as well once it's on.

 

Also, leaning back towards cutting the tunnel for the Mazworx shifter. The GKtech shfiter requires cutting the selector shaft which I CBF doing now the gearbox is installed.

  • Upvote 1

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Just be wary of anything S15 related coming from USA. A lot of people assume S14 = S15, but there are stupid differences. S15 starter is skinnier than S13/S14, and will bolt up to SR 5 speed boxes fine, but yeah. They didn't get S15's, so don't fucking trust them.

 

e.g. PBM modded knuckles for S14/S15 require you to buy S14 hub specific nut and washer, because S15 hubs are held on to S15 knuckles differently to S14 hubs/S14 knuckles. /CSH

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Group buy with Nicknak smile.png I've already tracked it and it's a beast !

Plus it's all about the Transient Response (lol).

 

 

haaha nice nice - yes it is about that transient.. it's like coming from a GT dinosaur wheel to a GTX, the difference on transient is day/night. Foot on/off/on/ff and it back on straight up.

 

I've been in a R34 GT-R with V-Cam and a 8374, man it's wild

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Ok,

Not too impressed with Gktech kit so going to use the Mazworx kit and cut the tunnel.

GKtech kit needed gear selector shaft cutting, then the adapter from the shaft fouled on the button head screw that holds the shifter in place.

Then the reverse lockout design is just not 100%. Trying to get 5th was a struggle as it kept wanting to drop the lever and go into reverse.

Plus when pushed down into reverse the spring wasn't enough to pop it up back up again.

I am sure with fiddling and playing we could get it to work nicer but I want it to be reliable as already had dramas with 4-5 on the track. For street it would be fine.

Others may not have the issues, I like the gktech stuff, but this isn't for me.

 

Wizard,

yep found that out with the revised instructions.

 

Dose Pipe, have a mate with a 34 and efr manifold. Waiting for him to buy the turbo so we can see how it goes. the classic bit is that he's upgrading from -5's

  • Upvote 1

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I personally wouldn't use anything from GKTech. Just my own opinion though. Insane Drifters have a shifter out now that requires no cutting either. Supposed to be pretty decent.

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Update !

 

Pic below of the Gktech setup for those interested.

20160902_103020.jpg

 

 

So onto installing the Mazworx supplied shifter.

20160903_121257.jpg

 

Put the cut and shortened linkage onto the selector shaft on the gearbox.

Don't be a rookie like me and forget to put the boot on first.

You can see from the centre of the linkage how much you have to cut.

20160903_105246.jpg

 

I drilled a couple of holes then used a jigsaw to cut it out.

20160903_112313.jpg

 

It wasn't enough and we had to cut into the bracing over the tunnel.

Install the bracket. You should actually cut yoru tunnel and install the bracket to the gearbox before you mount the gearbox but we wanted to test out the gktech shifter and see how well everything aligned.

20160903_120941.jpg

 

View of installed shifter from below

20160903_122149.jpg

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So shifter's installed and reverse lockout plate adjsuted for 5th gear.

I really don't like how these shifters have an adjustable section. I'd been keen to see a stock shifter setup and find out how that works.

Anyway, more on that later.

 

Installed in car

20160903_122201.jpg

 

With boot installed and bolted down. See how the handbrake connection is on the wrong side. LHD American vs RHD Australian.

I cut this off and just mounted it via 2 bolts. It a also very very tight, the top bolts really need to be slotted to make the rubber boot fit properly.

I haven't done this for reasons I'll state later.

 

20160903_123822.jpg

 

With surround.

It fits !

20160903_125525.jpg

 

But not with the outer surround... :(

20160903_125546.jpg

 

Also because the transmission is mounted further back int he tunnel I had to cut off the support from my front pipe and move it further back.

You can see where the old weld was cut and moved.

20160905_144913.jpg

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Remembering that I had the wrong instructions from the get go, people wouldn't necessarily have the same issues.

So after all of this the issues/unknowns I found are:

 

1) Ideally need the Nismo roller bearing for S15. Mazworxs didn't say why, I have the pilot bush so will see what happens.

2) S13 clutch needed, using the SR pivot ball and fork and throwout bearing that comes with the clutch.

3) Need the special bolt kit for bell housing to block (S15 specific)

4) Starter motor needed to have the locating lip cut off (See note below)

5) Need to modify front pipe hanger to transmission mount if using one.

6) Reverse and Neutral switches. I didn't cover this in the write up. I currently have them both disconnected. The Neutral switch plug I couldn't find easily but the reverse switch plug you can get from ConceptZ or Wiring specialities in the states. You need to extend the wiring. I'll get this at some stage.

7) Shifter !! Doesn't fit in the nice S15 surrounds. Not suited to RHD. (See note below)

 

Shifter:

I really don't like how on these aftermarket shifters they have an adjustable top plate for the reverse lockout 5th/6th selection. I'd really like to see how the stock shifter works and possibly even retrofit one. If doing this conversion on a street s15 I'd seriously look at a no cutting shifter. The shifter Mazworx uses is better (IMHO) than the GKtech but the cutting of the tunnel lets it down. If they redesigned the shifter to use the same yoke connector onto the input shaft they could easily make it a no cutting part. But from what I think, they buy this part in to go in the kit.

 

 

Starter motor:

It would not locate into the bell housing. Either the bell housing casting is a bit small or the starter motor is different to the S13. I checked on my old S15 6 speed bell housing and it turns out the locating lip doesn't even come into contact with the housing, so it does nothing. So I cut it off.

 

Overall, Very nice kit. VERY happy with no bashing of the tunnel required. Bit let down with the lack of info for S15 conversion, especially on the clutch setup. But they did get back to me very quick on my queries.

 

Price wise.

Gearbox new from conceptz - $3000 landed

Mazworx kit - $2980 landed (ally driveshaft option)

Extreme twin plate spring centre clutch kit - $1400

 

How does it drive ? No idea it's still in the workshop, hopefully take it for a test this weekend.

 

p.s

Big thanks to Ichi-go for providing tasty treats and laughing at my stuff ups.

Edited by The Big Fist

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actually, just a thought, is there any reason you cant modify the linkage to avoid cutting the tunnel?

 

Dunno what all these bits are called, but if you had the end of the shifter (1) connected straight to part (3) surely that would get the shifter further forward as it would get rid of part (2)

 

Youd need to cut part 3 and turn the tabs 90degrees and reweld and make a new bracket to bolt to the gearbox and hold the middle of the shifter, but that doesnt seem particularly hard. Im no engineer but it seems like an obvious simple solution, any reason it wouldnt work??

1.jpg

Edited by CraZeeE

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righto you posted my thoughts just as I was having them!

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