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Smiley235

Exhaust Leak

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So my car started sounding a bit like a tractor. A guy at work told me it sounds like an exhaust leak. So today, I jacked the car up and checked all the connections. Everything looked fine until I saw where the exhaust connects to the turbo. There is one stud on the top of the flange and three at the bottom. The top nut and the one directly below it were loose. The one in the middle bottom was threaded on an angle on the end of the stud and it looks like you cant get the nut on because the front pipe is in the way. (might need to grind the stud off a bit). And the third bottom nut was missing! So i've tightened up the loose ones, and found a replacement nut for the other side. Now i'm gonna take it to the exhaust shop who fitted it tomorrow. But I want some info about how it should have been done so he doesn't try and dupe me. I'm wondering why they were loose in the first place, and also thinking, should he have used washers on the nuts. Looks like the nut is just hard up against the flange.

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no, thats what happens. they undo them selves. so dont go in there ranting about how he didnt do his job.

there is now an article in the tech articles section that will tell you how to make lock tabs for the nuts. do it and you'l never have this problem again.

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you should always check nuts and bolts a few days after doing any work on car, just to make sure they havent come loose and if they have tighten them up.

 

saves a lot of heart ache lol i learnt the hard way, when something came loose and fell off bahaha

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you should always check nuts and bolts a few days after doing any work on car, just to make sure they havent come loose and if they have tighten them up.

 

saves a lot of heart ache lol i learnt the hard way, when something came loose and fell off bahaha

 

True that, ignoring a problem will always come back and bite you. I'm thinking of just using spring washers. I saw the guide on making those lock tabs, and although they're easy to make, I dont see any advantage it has over a spring washer.

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Yeah there is an article about lock-tabs, its a good read.

 

Better fix the exhaust leak or you will boost spike.

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you should always check nuts and bolts a few days after doing any work on car, just to make sure they havent come loose and if they have tighten them up.

 

saves a lot of heart ache lol i learnt the hard way, when something came loose and fell off bahaha

 

True that, ignoring a problem will always come back and bite you. I'm thinking of just using spring washers. I saw the guide on making those lock tabs, and although they're easy to make, I dont see any advantage it has over a spring washer.

 

 

You can't use spring washers on exhaust components. The high temperatures will soften the metal in the washers causing them to loose the spring effect needed to lock the nuts on. Same sorta reason you cant use nylock.

 

When i did mine i got some locking head nuts from a fastners store. Basically the nuts look slightly oval shaped on the top and push harder on the threads. Never had any issues with them (Sorry i don't know any technical names).

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you should always check nuts and bolts a few days after doing any work on car, just to make sure they havent come loose and if they have tighten them up.

 

saves a lot of heart ache lol i learnt the hard way, when something came loose and fell off bahaha

 

True that, ignoring a problem will always come back and bite you. I'm thinking of just using spring washers. I saw the guide on making those lock tabs, and although they're easy to make, I dont see any advantage it has over a spring washer.

 

 

You can't use spring washers on exhaust components. The high temperatures will soften the metal in the washers causing them to loose the spring effect needed to lock the nuts on. Same sorta reason you cant use nylock.

 

When i did mine i got some locking head nuts from a fastners store. Basically the nuts look slightly oval shaped on the top and push harder on the threads. Never had any issues with them (Sorry i don't know any technical names).

 

 

alright then, i'll see if I can find out where they are. The locking tab idea could be a real pain in the ass as its already hard enough to access all the bolts.

 

 

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[quote name=Smiley235' date='22 December 2010 - 10:22 AM' timestamp='1292975566'

post='6042455]

you should always check nuts and bolts a few days after doing any work on car, just to make sure they havent come loose and if they have tighten them up.

 

saves a lot of heart ache lol i learnt the hard way, when something came loose and fell off bahaha

 

True that, ignoring a problem will always come back and bite you. I'm thinking of just using spring washers. I saw the guide on making those lock tabs, and although they're easy to make, I dont see any advantage it has over a spring washer.

 

 

You can't use spring washers on exhaust components. The high temperatures will soften the metal in the washers causing them to loose the spring effect needed to lock the nuts on. Same sorta reason you cant use nylock.

 

When i did mine i got some locking head nuts from a fastners store. Basically the nuts look slightly oval shaped on the top and push harder on the threads. Never had any issues with them (Sorry i don't know any technical names).

On second thoughts, what proof do u have that spring washers lose their strength under heat, and how do lock tabs actually stop the nuts from coming out??

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Fyjosh if your talking about the turbo to manifold bolts then yes it has occurred though rarely hence the locking tab plates, as for the exhaust pipe to turbo bolts than the car did not even come with them stock, and I have undone my exhaust from turbo many times with no locking tabs, I didn't even know they existed for that position, and thats going off the service manual for the s14 sr. In fact they are usually bastards to get off due to the repeated heat cycles they have gone through. However this does not excuse Smiley's mechanic from cross-threading nuts as he states in the op.

 

Smiley the reason spring washers don't work in this situation is because of the repeated heating and cooling, under the pressure of the nut they will slowly flatten out when at high temperatures, when they cool they stay in this now flatter shape, do that however many times it takes and eventually the pressure the spring washer exerts on the nut reaches zero. Your best bet is to take one of the exhaust nuts to an exhaust shop and ask for five new copper nuts in that size and thread, shouldn't cost more than ten dollars.

 

 

As to how locking tabs work, what you do is place a plate of metal with fold up tab/s onto the stud then screw the nut down on top of it, once tightened you fold the tab up

next to the nut preventing the nut from turning. Similar to pic provided.

lock tab.jpg

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Fyjosh if your talking about the turbo to manifold bolts then yes it has occurred though rarely hence the locking tab plates, as for the exhaust pipe to turbo bolts than the car did not even come with them stock, and I have undone my exhaust from turbo many times with no locking tabs, I didn't even know they existed for that position, and thats going off the service manual for the s14 sr. In fact they are usually bastards to get off due to the repeated heat cycles they have gone through. However this does not excuse Smiley's mechanic from cross-threading nuts as he states in the op.

 

Smiley the reason spring washers don't work in this situation is because of the repeated heating and cooling, under the pressure of the nut they will slowly flatten out when at high temperatures, when they cool they stay in this now flatter shape, do that however many times it takes and eventually the pressure the spring washer exerts on the nut reaches zero. Your best bet is to take one of the exhaust nuts to an exhaust shop and ask for five new copper nuts in that size and thread, shouldn't cost more than ten dollars.

 

 

As to how locking tabs work, what you do is place a plate of metal with fold up tab/s onto the stud then screw the nut down on top of it, once tightened you fold the tab up

next to the nut preventing the nut from turning. Similar to pic provided.

 

Thanks for that info BOBO. Makes perfect sense now. I'll sort it out after the exhaust shops re-open, Thanks again!

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Alright, i'm trying to remove the heat shield so I can get a better look at how the exhaust connects to the turbo. And wow is proving very difficult. I've taken out all the visible bolts on the heat shield, yet it seems like something imaginary is stopping it from coming out. I've disconnected the hose that goes into the rear passenger side of the rocker cover and am now trying to remove the bracket which holds the connector for the O2 sensor. There are two bolts on this bracket, one was easy to remove and the other one...i'm at whits end. Has anyone else had this much trouble removing the heat shield? Here is a few pics of the troublesome bolt in question.

IMG_0558.JPG

IMG_0559.JPG

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Yeh, there are about 5 screws holding it in, but the problem was getting it out with the electrical harness holder getting in the way and the holder lower bolt being impossible to remove. But I got it out in the end. After bending the shit out of that holder. Ive pulled a ford 4l engine apart, but this heat shield proved the most difficult Ive ever experienced... Stupid bolt.

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Hey mate. I have some locking tabs (Genuine Nissan ones) you can have for nothing if you like?

I am in VIC. I bought some spares when i did my turbo conversion. Shoot me a PM if you need em.

Azz

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Cars are giving the creaking sounds and they need to be get the perfect in using some methods. Likewise you need to focus on australian help that is of great advantage so that all the users can grasp new.

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