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Won't post photos "Error the server returned an error during upload"

what the f**k did i just resize 10 photos for then

(3 days of this shit and yes i did mozilla as well, basic uploader etc.)

rage quit i'll be back in 2 weeks when admins bother fixing

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002.JPG

test

Looks fixed (:

Will update in an hour when I get back home again gtg deliver something at 12:30 midnight >.>

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s13k's

 

Posted Today, 01:26 AM

wtf happened to the windshield?

 

So I finally dragged my brother and my dad along on the two hour drive, and seen the silhouette of the 180 in the driveway as we arrived, I could feel them internally cringing, smashed windscreen, no driver door or quarter glass, grim reaper bonnet hahaha

yeah I snagged a new one like in the same week I bought the shell for $20, needs the edges scraped and has a tiny scratch form wipers but apparently got rwc with it, but it's for track

 

I will update tomorrow I got a huge night at work tonight, 33 million people booked into restaurant, and then my old Nerang house neighbour's coming home and his brothers 21st party in one, should be looose haha

 

 

12.png

The switch is a 12v momentary

and i'm making a little switch assembly for a truck style pull string horn!! :hypo:

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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ey so here's the rocker covers I don't think I posted up when I got them, speedflow -AN fittings welded on $70

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Not my best deal but hard to find s2 covers. Then again I have to bang that baffle in to fit, these are prob s1 or something. Only thing I care about is what I have to do to get them to fit though, no point sooking.

Furthermore what do you reckon I should do with this hole? Get another -AN fitting or a nipple-to-hose-to-oil breather setup? (just a breather seperate to catch can) I'll be researching what to do with the catch can lines later anyway, as I never looked up the vent-to-atmosphere way to do it (3 minutes of googling away)

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This cluster surround, i will mould in the timer on the left (fibreglassing) and a 52mm on the right, probably oil press. I like the boost gauge on the pillar only, nothing to do with rice, just suits my viewing best, I hated every location I tried in the skyline until I did pillar, and loved it. Anyone agree?

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Tasty looking Bride zeta seat

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Steering rack I'll remove the ends from and put on my adj. tein ends w/ new tie rods and paint the rack, I also have better cond. bushes and linkage from when I had problems with my r32 one. (As you know r32 fits s13)

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That $20 cluster, might even run without a cover on it now as I have abandoned going street, track only but revertable (No tube front etc, but bolt ons can be illegal)

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Extra globes, as mentioned by pmod :beer: I think I found an extra light hole as well haha, at the top under the wiring track plastic022.JPG

Tail lights with garnish (not in pic) I repainted with ceramic content satin black because they were tinted already with paint but sprayed like shit.

Not really a fan but they'll do for the cheap price I got em for (Forgot atm, think I wrote it back before though)

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Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Had trouble getting the clutch hose off the slave as pictured haha

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Was using flare spanner, torque pipe and jerky nut-cracking motions, not slow force. (Of course lubed nut)

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Successs

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Here's the brake lines I have too, I got these off ebay for $110 shipped, r32 gtst/300zx/more braided brake and clutch cables by HEL

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I have painted the calipers in VHT High Heat wrinkle satin red (Ferrari valve cover style)

:wub: :wub: :wub:

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Just gotta clean up the pad brackets and put the shitty pads back in (to not lose tiny stuff) I need better pads \: Will deal with that cost after the car has been turned on for the first time (When I go over 40kmp/h I'll buy pads to keep money now)

 

 

UNRELATED

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Here's my civic out the front, in a sun shower

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Working for dad, putting these steps in the other day

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:quagmire: EXTERNAL GATE!!!! :hypo::teehee::wub::bringiton:001.JPG002.JPG

Turbosmart 35mm Ultragate, old school style with a 1 bar spring

f**k I love the sound of these and a nice straight 6, straight pipe exhaust :wub:

 

Curing brake caliper paint (100oc for 100 minutes) This combines my two main trades haha, cooking car parts

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Fluid stunk like sht, but I knew to put a pan with water, and a cut up lemon in the oven to bake for 2 more hours and all the chemical smell, goonnee.

 

Here is the actual 180sx,

002.JPGgot the loom completely out ALMOST! (I been saying I'll get it out for so long hahaha) Just need to pull it all through the firewall.

004.JPG005.JPGThat is the body loom however, I have the engine loom at home. It looks to be rb into s13 anyway so I will see if I can just fix this one up myself (I'm decent at wiring) instead of spending $$, money saved oh yea :quagmire:

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Not much to go until she is all stripped off, and I can sandblast the shell, paint it all, then grind back spots for rollcage stands, and get the cage sorted however I do. \: She'll be right

 

(30 pictures happens when I delay a post -.- ahaha)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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No pictures of it, but today I got everything, except for some computer in passenger side, antenna, rear wiper and motor, bonnet latch and horn. The body loom still needs to come through the firewall to come out. Hopefully get this done tomorrow morning. Then it will be time to chop off all the unncessary shit like rear seat supports, front battery tray (rust producer) and stuff I find. (Yes I know to be very careful and research, not chopping stuff like seat mounts) I also took the shell off jackstands since I had 6 boys around, and those only have 1"2 of contact patch, I put it further back towards the end of the block and beside the container so it's safer and neater (It's 8" off ground not 15" like before hah, with use of 4 stockies as stands) I also want to find whatever junk tin or fence and fence it off then use wood posts (heeaps at yard) to put my tarp up as a gazebo thing instead of laying the tarp out all the time.

 

Also trying to figure out what diff I have.

I really should learn about diffs...

Spinning any spline, forwards or backwards has instant response and it looks locked. that's how you tell right? haha

It looks heaps like R200, has smaller front mounting bolts (Not big rings on a lot/few r200's, is this skyline not silvias or what?)

has 6 (3x2) bolt shafts and the R180? 4 bolt rear mounting to the non-hicas subframe

 

I'm convinced it's a R200 LSD that's locked

Will be opening it up anyway soon, maybe tomorrow I shall

Another small update tomorrow with pics.

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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So this morning I was just messing around, and unbolted that baffle that fouls on the rocker cover, and 180o -d it, now it has the stock indent on the outside, matches the other side, and... Clears! (: So the baffle cover thing (2 of em at rear) over the exhaust side cam was just assembled backwards (Person before me with the head, guess I should check cam cap bolt torque) Have brought back my bonnet hinges too so I can hyperextend them with a grinder (170o, opposed to stock ~70o of motion, and I'm doing it for the access not rice, my civic does it stock and it's so nice to work on.)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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OFF TOPIC

Beware if you hate Honda's

Thinking about doing another hybrid engine same as the RB30 for the D16 in the civic, (SOHC Non-turbo EFI to DOHC EFI Turbo, but with VTEC)

D16Y8 DOHC VTEC head with forgies and turbo kit (rebuild) it handles excellent for FWD so would only extend as far as to get a 2-way diff, wider tyres and maaaybe better coilovers and maayybee rollcage for rigidity alone (those depend on the funds i get from govt. in Dec when I finish apprenticeship)

 

I did do a little on the 180 today, got the rear hubs almost fully disassembled, just need to take the wheel off (need to buy another 12mm hex key) the hub, and the upper control/camber arms off the rear knuckles. One knuckle came off easy, and one knuckle is jammed as f**k onto the bearing/hub. Have tried crow bar-ing, hammering for vibration, a combination of them two, the old stand-on-the-wheel-and-pull-the-knuckle-like-fk-trick, standing on pulling while hammering, and the final fk-you kick, jammed on there still though.

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R180 and R200's are pretty easy to tell apart.

  • Upvote 1

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Here is diff photos I forgot to upload, yer I'm pretty convinced it's R200, but it has all the unusuals, smaller front mount holes, the 4 bolt rear housing and the 3x2 half shafts. 2 of 3 are interchangeable but yeah, just not sure about what the front smaller looking diameter holes mean. I have seen the big holes, and small holes listed as R200 regardless of rear housing of course.

Furthermore when spun, (grabbing anything; either side or the input shaft) responds equally, does that mean locked? WIll crack it open pretty soon. Actually on that, I have Saturday AND Sunday off this weekend tomorrow :hypo:008.JPG009.JPG025.JPG005.JPG006.JPG007.JPG

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Also I tried the drain nut on the diff with a Makita rattle gun and it wouldn't budge and didn't wanna push the gun motor, \: i didn't lube it so i guess i'll try again but on the fill bolt in case that ones easier (no water splashing on it while in operation) to drain as it doesn't matter when it's out, can just tip it. But yeh will update tomorrow with whatever I get up to. Might break out the windscreen.

 

Update for Saturday, couldn't get to the 180, had to go downshift with my mates haha, I didn't wanna cus photos are always stock cars parked up called clean? But yer it was like that. Of course there was some mad cars namely a 180sx with s14a front, RB30/25 :quagmire: and a HKS Supercharged Mazda caught m y eye too. Couple of mad FD RX7s, and the best; A 1969 Hachiroku Skyline GTR Fuuuuuuuu :wub: :wub: Clean as tits too.

 

Will be working on the 180 tomorrow with my cousins, and taking out the wheels from under it (stands) and put it on wood chocks I got from the work I did with dad (offcuts from sleepers) and I do look forward to them as a much larger, wider points of contact for the shell to sit on. (selling wheels) (:

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Drain plug is prob over tightened , there conical so they don't need to be tightend much , but people are silly. Try jamming the diff between something that will hold it so you can put some force into UN doing it.

  • Upvote 1

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Drain plug is prob over tightened , there conical so they don't need to be tightend much , but people are silly. Try jamming the diff between something that will hold it so you can put some force into UN doing it.

 

Hahah so true mate, and yer will do today, or try the other nut, whatever.

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Haven't got to the diff yet, but my dad bought me a 12mm hex key! :thumb: So I can finish disassembling the rear cradle (lca's off, knuckles seperate from hubs and wheels off the hubs) All bushes are good, I could get away with running only new castor arms, but it's not the handling I'm after. Would be nice if someone bought the whole set as a refresher kit or something.

The progress I've made Sunday is the most visually confirmed haha, she's almost bare

Used the gopro thing i got for christmas for these photos, it's sony though, pretty mad

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Just got some small electrical things to unbolt in both footwell sides, rear mudguards, bonnet latch, boot latch, window surrounds (rubbers,) and any other tiny things like that. I'd say less than an hour for sure.

Next up is sound deadener, thankfully I experimented with a chisel and big hammer, works extremely well for the thick shit. Smaller stuff is harder but i see myself spending $20 on multiple wire brush attachments (due to clogging) to just scour it all off.

Here's my progress, the boot is done (minus paint prep cleanup of course) and minus wheelwells if they count as boot. It's sort of one container now, haha.

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Lastly... What does everyone reckon about hammering out the wheelwells? I'm getting more clearance when I tested it on the front LH side. I tested it because I'd be chopping them anyways if it doesn't work out.

Do people only weld in nice shapes because of cleanliness? I like the ripple look hahahah. I like the price of it too

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oh and the windscreen rubber to scraper/wire brush while it's out

 

then it's time to start banging out the arches or ctting them, whatever, cutting rear seat support, cutting various now used brackets and shit (Very careful, i know and if i don't will check before i chop things) and basic body prep. Filling antenna hole, roof rear wiper squirter etc.

 

another thought again; If my shell came with those type X SHAPED ebay spec lights, I could fibreglass or persplex and paint the garnish, and paint the lenses all red, and the rest black (hate chrome) might look tasty. That would make my garnish/beaver panel that came with it; the type x style? Am going to the yard now to do some work, got tonight off. So I'll check

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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002.JPG

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Engine bay is completely stripped except for paint prep and body work

 

Banged out guard bottom

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top

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Shell is BARE, time to start the build

Last things I took out

passenger footwell,

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driver footwell, 002.JPG

004.JPG005.JPG006.JPG007.JPG

Single rope around whole thing008.JPG

Single knot, works a treat009.JPG

 

My cousin put his mig in the site shed so I'll text him today and ask if I can have a little go, I did also do some arc welding on dad's trailer, pretty good if I say so myself ^_^ Apparently mig is easier but to me atm it looks more complex..

I'll be taking the wire brush wheel and shit like that today to start body mods (every wiring tab and every low importance bolt has been stripped, just sound deadener to remove.)

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First mig welds... lol..

Turns out I had the gas on 2psi :hammer:

004.JPG005.JPG006.JPG

 

 

Then these are my first welds with mig, with gas 013.JPG

Much nicer, and it penetrates haha

 

 

So I made this thing011.JPG

 

 

Then moved on and tested some gold paint pen on my calipers, I reckon it looks boss as fk, don't know if it'll last though

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Got a momo harness for a swap for a set of RB coils I had from the skyline (was fixing misfire, going through the usual list)

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and I got my mates over and moved the shell back to here, it's so light :quagmire:

 

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I got the comment it looks like it's been burned out, it does doesn't it? Would have considered the option if the heat wouldn't warp everything out of place, oh well already done

 

and here's about 40 mins of progress (boot section took about the same, and minus the wheel arches all together so far) 004.JPG

 

So my next goals are finish getting that deadener out, then start chopping some shit like useless brackets and other spot welded beasties like the front battery tray, drilled out one half of that battery tray today with a hand drill, but decided f it, will probably be chopping front tubs anyway.

 

Then next is to get the shell paint stripped (I'm considering buying sand and a bigger blaster [have a spot sand blaster only] for this) and painted up. I'm thinking white or maroon interior, and black outside for sure. (cage definately maroon) Then it will be time for the rollcage (grind back paint for plates) which will be interesting.

After that is a matter of assembling the car, getting the engine built and getting the wiring sorted

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Been pretty distracted by civic/job/easter and shit last 2 weeks, need to spend more time on the 180 again

 

I've cut out the passenger front section of front wheel guard, got the cutter in the civic for whenever i'm free next to go at it

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Chopped the front left guard front section, i need to go higher up towards the strut tower a tad but better to chop less first

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Have today off to chop some more stuff, will probably chop other side front (need to do back of fronts still) and the boot sides that hold trims

Update tonight

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001.JPG002.JPG

So I just got the one front side (front and back of front end car though) today, with the cutter. Will try dad's new nibbler tomorrow because that was nice to use, makes much straighter lines (not too good access but i'm not that worried, can grind back edges.) And it turns like a jigsaw, cutter can not, also no chance of that cutter disc shattering into my face hah, that sounds good :thumbsup:

 

See you guys tomorrow with hopefully an update of all chopping done ready to start stitch welding chassis and should do wheel tubs then with engine out, then paint time :hypo:

 

I know I say a lot of "i'll do this, i'll do that" but I WILL and some of what I have posted (apart from repeating myself) I have already done and will actually do etc.

 

edit: you can see I trimmed the front section a bit more (10mm) past the bend to actually create more clearance :hammer: Got it though

What do you think about the cut angle around front-front-front (where the wiring hole is) leave hole or chop it square? Won't be running external/wheelarch route for wires

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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By square, I mean where the pic remains (red square area of attention, red steak looking thing is chop area)002.JPG

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Been raining for a couple days lately but still got a bit of cutting done yesterday morning before work, back seat supports out (Still got to drill out welds, generator was strggling so I'll use hand drill) also all the shit around the windscreen.004.JPG008.JPG

 

Then i got the other front side with battery tray out (heavy for sheet metal.)

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So all that's left now is to expand the inner boot a little, stitch weld the chassis, few small things like scraping back rubber residue off windows etc.

Shell is coming along. Parts collection has well-started haha, and engine has the head already done, just gotta get block prep done and choose turbo/pistons [c.ratio etc]/stock rods or not

 

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big chunk of progress in an update coming soon

Work hasn't stopped, updates are less frequent now

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Got an engine stand! goodbye ford stockie on the floor :shades:

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new head plate thing

this is where you bolt it in right? :sex:

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Will post engine photos in a sec

Bogged up window sills (slight hail damage over car before i bought it)

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Arrow mirrors I got for $40, painted black

(idc about stock mirrors, just the same price as having to buy two stockers haha)

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Painted clutch and throttle pedals, brake came clearly snapped then welded by some kind of intelligent animal, needs grinding and mig'ing before paint025.JPG

Steering wheel painted (awaiting a free hand wrap from my mma mate)

026.JPG028.JPG

Rear and front knuckles painted, got to just brush a tad more paint onto the sides of bolts where tape was (didn't want paint inside bolt holes, they've been tube sanded with 240p)029.JPG Then I can bolt on my 5 stud hubs and brakes, steering rack will be painted next, and have the tein adj. rack ends with new tie rods put into the hubs. So then all the front needs (minus crossmember) is castor rods, sway bar and lca's. (may try my hand at making a nismo power brace style brace, too)

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021.JPG

Just placed on the old 30e oil pump, mounts and other randoms haha

013.JPG012.JPG

 

 

Fresh head through the attention-seeking rb30e+t block

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Greddy t67 mani i got for $150 shipped from jdm-garage on ebay, damn good deal

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Bra off photo :naughty:

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All safe and tucked in :hug:

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I traded that pignose bumper and immaculate lip (both amazing condition) for "$400 worth" from a guy's sale who I buy from a lot,

 

Traded: bumper and lip for this: (3 items)

 

 

The engine stand030.JPG011.JPG

 

The HKS fuel rail (bung for single or dual feed) Rb25 top-fed 033.JPG

 

The KKR 430 Turbo, in good condish with next to no shaft play ($800 new) came with adapter to v-band dump

034.JPG035.JPG

032.JPG036.JPG

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Got a huge update to do tonight... Like 40 photos

Like I said before I'm still spending the same if not more time on the 180sx still, just not posting it. I should post it more often... The idea isn't for you guys, it's so I can document the build etc. Why keep it on Word though :thumb:

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